44> Emanuel Ungaro In contrast to previous, brightly colored seasons, Ungaro shows a subdued collection this fall. Black forms the basis of many outfits, sometimes spiced with bright green or vibrant purple. Even his once big, bold prints are quieter. Although he presents a few long, full skirts for day, in paisley and in flower prints, above-the-knee hemlines predominate. Ungaro maintains his reputation for designing sexy clothes even though there are fewer of his elaborately draped dresses. For evening, he wraps his short ruffled dresses in oversized taffeta "cocoons." A more casual evening outfit is a long gray wool coat tossed over a silver lace bodice and plaid wool pants. Known for his sexy, draped dresses, Ungaro was in a quieter mood this fall. The clothes were still sexy but colors were muted and ornamentation was minimal.