American designers' collections:
Ralph Lauren — An American flag
hand-knitted in the center of a navy
tweed turtleneck. A salute to cowboys
and Indians via Navajo-print coats, wrap
skirts and ponchos; and, straight out of
the Old West, fringed suede coats.
Suits with capelet jackets for working
women. A bathrobe coat in camel hair,
worn with navy cashmere sweater set.
Calvin Klein — A new version of the
sweater set with cardigans cut in
blouson shapes, worn over matching
turtlenecks. Hooded Eskimo parkas
with drawstring waistlines in the newest
fabric, a quilted polyester-nylon taffeta.
Jodhpurs worn with ascot polo shirts
and cashmere crewneck sweaters.
Cashmere pullovers and matching stoles
worn with pants. Tailored silk crepe
evening suits worn with silk T-shirts.
Isaac Mizrahi — Long, loose pillar
dresses with big, nose-warming collars.
A brilliant use of tartans, such as Royal
Stewart fur-trimmed parkas and Black
Watch chiffon smoking suits. Newest
color combo: melon and pumpkin
Ronaldus Shamask — Long black
jersey princess dresses and tunicskirt
outfits, worn with white T-shirt dickeys
under the low decollete. Cutaway
jackets worn with short tight skirts,
cropped pants or leggings.
Bill Blass — Back-baring sweaters
and long columnar evening dresses.
Side-wrapped skirts. A gray flannel suit
with gold lame blouse. Abundant use
of animal-print fabrics, such as a
leopard-print sarong skirt worn with a
gold Lurex turtleneck or leopard-print
chiffon evening dresses.
Louis Dell'Olio for Anne Klein — The
favorite color, red. Red cashmerre wool
bathrobe coats over jumpsuits and
turtleneck sweaters; red swing coats
with matching trousers and turtlenecks;
red wrap dresses with matching drape-
front sweaters. All worn with matching
red shoes and hose. One-color outfits
repeated in head-to-toe moss green,
violet and camel. For cold weather,
leather-piped mohair coat with match-
Michael Kors — One-color outfits in
shades of chartreuse, saffron or spice,
including trench coats or trench jackets
with jumpsuits or shorts. Wool lace
separates, such as navy wool lace
trousers with white sueded cotton shirt
and gray flannel jersey blazer.
Oscar de la Renta — Bathrobe coats
and jackets with embroidered pockets
and cuffs, worn over hooded cashmere
tunics and gray flannel pants. For even-
ing, quilted silk faille bathrobe coats ac-
Skirt lengths are still long, about mid-
calf, although other lengths are
available. For business suits, the
shortest acceptable length is slightly
abcve the knee.
All the manufacturers are showing
vests. A typical outfit is a long, full skirt
in lightweight corduroy or flannel, a
high-collared blouse and a vest in
According to Cheryl Hall, fashion
director at Saks Fifth Avenue, Troy,
"There is something for everyone this
season."Hall notes the fabulous palette
of jewel tones, spice colors and the
classic camel and gray colors. Forest
green, khaki, burnt orange — the earth
colors are back again.
Hall mentions the exciting collections
of Isaac Mizrahi, Donna Karan and
The equestrian look is popular this
season. Hudson's highlights this trend
as an English manor or country inspired
look. "It's an elegant and sophisticated
approach," says Marilyn Connor.
Equestrian style gray tweed
ladies' suit with velvet collar
and men's Chesterfield coat.
Available at Burberrys.
companied by black wool crepe pants
with paisley embroidery. Filmy chiffon
scarves over evening dresses.
Donna Karan — Her classically
designed separates in luxurious fabrics,
like a silk velvet turtleneck vest worn
with wool stretch pants and cashmere
duffle coat. Or a silk velvet cowled tunic
with wool crepe scarf-pants and
cashmere bathrobe coat. Or a silk velvet
bodyblouse with wool crepe stretch
pants and cashmere blazer. Also, silk
velvet down-filled vests.
Geoffrey Beene — Jumpsuits. Hood-
ed boleros and cloaks. Curving, one-
seam dresses. Gowns that rise in the
front or back to reveal sequined lace
petticoats. Shawls with knotted and
tasseled ends. The one essential ac-
What comes down the fashion run-
way is not necessarily what turns up in
local stores. Fashion-forward styles take
a while to filter down, and decidedly
new looks, such as miniskirts, take even
longer to catch on (if they ever do). But
this season's trends are well within the
norms of mainstream dressing, so
much of it will be immediately available.
Here's what local store owners are
Another strong trend at Hudson's is
the Oscar Wilde, a dandyish look with
vests, coats and poet shirts.
The boot-length slim skirt, in vogue
a few years ago, is making a comeback.
This will be a big blouse season, with
such features as lace trims, shawl col-
lars, jabot necklines and embroidered
crests. Fringe is a major accent —
fringe on sweaters, on leather and
Vests are fashionable especially in
luxury fabrics like brocade. Also shown
are vested dresses (a dress that looks
like a vest). Animal prints — leopard,
tiger, zebra, dalmation, — are
everywhere, even in earrings.
Lovely new fabrics being used for fall
include mohair, cashmere (especially in
sweaters and skirts) and colorful plaids.
Wool jackets are trimmed in leather.
Warm colors, like burgundy, plum and
olive are in.
Diane Mondry of Diane V in Birm-
ingham purchased many cashmere
sweaters in all the basic colors.
"Sweaters are strong, 'she notes. In ad-
dition to a complete cashmere line,
Diane M will show fisherman knit and
glen plaid sweaters.
Some of the new designers at Diane
M are Cynthia Steffe and Jamie Herzl-
inger. Steffe is a former associate of
Donna Karan and features draped, com-
fortable clothing. Herzlinger's designs
in wool jersey are great career choices.
Mondry also notices the strong
folkloric and ethnic themes off all
fashion dressing. Arlene Green of the