UP TO THE MINUTE ew York City gallery owner Edward Faber started collecting vintage watches sort of by acci- dent about 10 years ago. "We are a design gallery that specializes in twentieth century jew- elry," he explains. "One day, a dealer came in with a presentation of collect- ible wristwatches. 'Go away,' I told him. 'We sell jewelry— not watches. ' " The dealer persisted. "I told him to stop making a nuisance of himself, and I selected about a dozen of his watches," Faber continues. "In about three weeks, I sold every one of them." Today, although The Aaron Faber Gallery, which Faber co-owns with his wife, Patricia, is still primarily a gallery of contemporary jewelry, its collection of vintage timepieces is unquestionably among the most extensive in the coun- try. They reportedly sold $1 million in watches last year, and expect to add a half-million to that figure by this year's end. In addition, Faber and Stewart Unger, owner of the Madison Avenue shop Time Will Tell, have co-authored the book, American Wristwatches: Five Decades of Style and Design. 102 STYLE BY CHUCK BENNETT Collecting antique watches is the current craze. Ed Faber, who sold $1 million of them last year in his New York gallery, tells which are best. Faber says he was amazed at the de- mand and interest in collectible wristwatches. "It usually begins when somebody stumbles across their grandad's watch packed away somewhere in the attic," he says. "Something like that usually fuels the interest." He further classifies collectors as mostly middle to upper class men bet- ween the ages of 25 and 60. "The collector usually has a great sense of style," he adds. "He realizes that he can't wear his art or his cars, and in most cases, he has to be con- servative in business, and can't wear flashy diamond rings or gold chains." In lieu of these things, people have turned to the watch as a symbol of power and success. It has been detected most often in the boardroom — ten "players" at the board table wearing $13,000 gold Rolex Presidents. Player number eleven sets himself miles apart from the others by sporting a collectible timepiece, perhaps a $600,000 Patek Philippe Tourbillion that he purchased in an auction at Sotheby's. Patek Philippe, by the way, is the best watch "in the world," according to Faber. "Audemars Piguet and Vacheron and Constantin are also historically fine