BEST OF EVERYTHING Los Angeles Has The. Glitz, But Detroit Has Staying Power DANNY RASKIN Local Columnist T Restaurant C4, 6066 W. MAPLE RD. North of Orchard Lake Rd. 851-6577 CARRY-OUT DEPT. NEXT DOOR TO OUR FULL-SERVICE RESTAURANT Featuring • Pizza • Ribs • Greek Salads • Lasagna • Chicken • Sandwiches • Etc. FOR ALL OCCASIONS E I COUPON 1 . 1 r I COUPON $2 OFF DINNER BUY 1 PIZZA SLAB OF RIBS GET SECOND_ SAME PIZZA FREE FOR 2 INCLUDES GREEK SALAD & BAG CARRY-OUT LOCATION ONLY OF BREAD STICKS LCARRY OUT LOCATION ONLY • Expires 9-27-82 j L1 Coupon Per Purchase • Expires 9-27-89 j evic iAl 4f Cafe , Just N. of 13 Mile • Farm. Hills • 626-0804 29566 ORCHARD LAKE RD. Dining • High Quality • Reasonable Prices Home-Style Family r BREAKFAST COUPON I r 1 DINNER COUPON II 1 FREE! FREE! CHILDREN WAFFLE BELGIAN OR REGULAR WITH PURCHASE OF A SECOND WAFFLE MONDAY THRU FRIDAY L, Expires 9-15-89 _ J1\1_ j 10 & UNDER NO CHARGE WITH PURCHASE OF ANY ADULT DINNER ON MENU! MONDAY THRU FRIDAY FROM 2 p.m. L. Expires 9-15-89 JN Hours: Mon.-Fri. 6:30-9, Sat. 6:30-4, Sun. 6:30-3 The Bright Idea: Give a Gift Subscription 72 FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 1989 THE JEWISH NEWS he Mystery Muncher writes . . . "Courage is showing up at Spago without a reservation. On a recent trek to Los Angeles, we were determined to frequent the trendy restaurant. We couldn't get a reservation un- til 10 p.m. on a Monday night. On Monday we received three phone calls from Spago to be sure we were coming. "'lb our knowledge, there's nothing in the Detroit metropolitan area like this sophisticated Italian dining spot. "Spago is tucked away atop an innocuous-appearing building which you must enter around the back. "The view is great. The room is less impressive. It's filled with big flower ar- rangements, small tables and uncomfortable chairs. The elegance is in the food and the service. "Owner/chef Wolfgang Puck has a proverbial gold mine in the popular restau- rant. Add to Puck's culinary talents, local products, freshness, informality, simplicity and an aura of ex- citement and you have Spago. "When we heard that Puck specializes in pizzas, we were less than impressed. But don't compare Spago to Domino's or Papa Roman's. `Puck does flaky thin pizzas with goat cheese, sun-dried tomatoes, Santa Barbara shrimp, duck sausage and fresh herbs. The shrimp piz- za is pure heaven. "The pastas are equally delicious and original. We recommend the ravioli filled with lobster for a real taste treat. "The fish is the freshest to be found. It's grilled with a smattering of butter and gar- nished with sweet onion. "Chicken, duck and squab are grilled to perfection and fish soups are seasoned with exotic herbs. "We couldn't resist the desserts and chose homemade coffee ice cream with chocolate sauce and a fresh- baked brownie. "Our waiter was experienc- ed and suggested the dishes we enjoyed. We didn't spot any movie stars, but we did notice the beautiful people having a fun evening. "Spago isn't inexpensive, but it's all it is cracked up to be. • "Another unique restau- rant with duplicate in the Detroit area is Palm. It's styl- ed after the New York original with bright lights, noise, cartoons on the wall and no menu. "The waiters look at the size of your party and tell you how many pounds of lobster to order. All you can get in the way of entrees are gigantic Nova Scotia lobsters and enormous steaks. "We had creamed spinach, one of the specialties of the house. But it can't top the spinach at Joe Muer's. The onion rings are prepared in a loaf and are tasty and crunchy. "The price is startling. With the tip, we figured the bill close to $50 per person. But the California crowds don't seem to mind. Reserva- tions at this bustling spot don't guarantee immediate seating. "Dim sum and then some is the motto at Chin Chin's in West Hollywood. Dim sum are Chinese appetizers in pro- fusion so you don't go away hungry. "We've never been inside Chin Chin's, preferring to dine al fresco and watch the interesting people and luxury cars in the passing parade. "Chinese thicken salad, shrimp fried rice, chicken rolls, shrimp dumplings and tiny spare ribs are just a few of the delicately prepared dishes at Chin Chin's. And the' price is right. "Malibu Beach at its most romantic is the setting for Gladstone's. Dining outside, gazing at the water and the lovers on the beach is an ex- perience. Young couples in foreign cars flock to Gladstone's night after night. "The seafood at this sprawl- ing restaurant is among the best in the area. But the lobster and crab legs get cold as you watch panorama. "Because Detroit isn't a tourist town, it lacks the number of trendy, glitzy, over- priced restaurants of the West Coast. "But many Detroit-area dining spots have more stay- ing power than those of the Los Angeles ilk where travelers are more prevalent and people are more fickle. "Among tried-and-true restaurants is Machus Red Fox on Thlegraph near Maple. This lovely place is far more elegant in decor than any din- ing room we frequented in L.A. "And with all due respect to Wolfgang Puck, the salad at Spago can't hold a candle to the consistently delicious Machus salad. "Another success story is Peppina's on Dix Road in Lin- coln Park. Owner Mary Dear- dorff started out about two decades ago with a drive-in Italian restaurant on the same corner. "She was new to the food business but the wonderful, aromatic, freshly made dishes brought customers in droves and they kept coming back for more. "Peppina's kept expanding. Everything from the soup to the wonderful desserts is made on the premises with the able assistance of Dear- dorff s daughter, Paula. "The walls are lined with rose quartz and amethyst -4 416.4 • The view is great. The room is less impressive. It's filled with big flower arrangements. The elegance is in the food and the service. stones which come from a mine operated by Deardorffs husband. Some of the amethyst has been picked off but the glimmer is still there. "Also on display are ar- tifacts made of precious stones and jewelry is for sale. "Lelli's on Woodward and Bethune has long been touted as the Roman Colosseum of Italian restaurants where everything from the place to the portions is huge. "We were there recently, after many years and ordered dinner on the light side. Maybe that was a mistake. The food as we remember it was much better when we weren't worried about weight and cholesterol. "Another old standby we revisited is Laffrey's on Seven Mile and Telegraph, where the steaks on the hearth are still tender and tasty. "Ristorante di Modesta on Northwestern Highway in Southfield is making a strong comeback after a major fire destroyed the building. "The chic restaurant is drawing capacity crowds with reservations hard to come by 1lb JP.