BEST OF EVERYTHING
Los Angeles Has The. Glitz,
But Detroit Has Staying Power
DANNY RASKIN
Local Columnist
T
Restaurant
C4, 6066 W. MAPLE RD.
North of Orchard Lake Rd.
851-6577
CARRY-OUT DEPT.
NEXT DOOR TO OUR FULL-SERVICE RESTAURANT
Featuring
• Pizza • Ribs • Greek Salads • Lasagna
• Chicken • Sandwiches • Etc.
FOR ALL OCCASIONS
E
I COUPON 1
.
1 r
I COUPON
$2 OFF DINNER
BUY 1 PIZZA
SLAB OF RIBS
GET SECOND_ SAME
PIZZA FREE
FOR 2
INCLUDES GREEK SALAD & BAG
CARRY-OUT LOCATION ONLY
OF BREAD STICKS
LCARRY OUT LOCATION ONLY • Expires 9-27-82 j L1 Coupon Per Purchase • Expires 9-27-89 j
evic iAl 4f Cafe
,
Just N. of 13 Mile • Farm. Hills • 626-0804
29566 ORCHARD LAKE RD.
Dining
•
High Quality • Reasonable Prices
Home-Style Family
r
BREAKFAST COUPON I
r 1 DINNER COUPON II
1
FREE!
FREE!
CHILDREN
WAFFLE
BELGIAN OR REGULAR
WITH PURCHASE OF A
SECOND WAFFLE
MONDAY THRU FRIDAY
L, Expires 9-15-89 _ J1\1_ j
10 & UNDER NO CHARGE
WITH PURCHASE OF ANY
ADULT DINNER ON MENU!
MONDAY THRU FRIDAY FROM 2 p.m.
L. Expires 9-15-89 JN
Hours: Mon.-Fri. 6:30-9, Sat. 6:30-4, Sun. 6:30-3
The Bright Idea:
Give a Gift Subscription
72
FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 1989
THE JEWISH NEWS
he Mystery Muncher
writes . . . "Courage is
showing up at Spago
without a reservation. On a
recent trek to Los Angeles, we
were determined to frequent
the trendy restaurant. We
couldn't get a reservation un-
til 10 p.m. on a Monday night.
On Monday we received three
phone calls from Spago to be
sure we were coming.
"'lb our knowledge, there's
nothing in the Detroit
metropolitan area like this
sophisticated Italian dining
spot.
"Spago is tucked away atop
an innocuous-appearing
building which you must
enter around the back.
"The view is great. The
room is less impressive. It's
filled with big flower ar-
rangements, small tables and
uncomfortable chairs. The
elegance is in the food and the
service.
"Owner/chef Wolfgang
Puck has a proverbial gold
mine in the popular restau-
rant. Add to Puck's culinary
talents, local products,
freshness, informality,
simplicity and an aura of ex-
citement and you have Spago.
"When we heard that Puck
specializes in pizzas, we were
less than impressed. But
don't compare Spago to
Domino's or Papa Roman's.
`Puck does flaky thin pizzas
with goat cheese, sun-dried
tomatoes, Santa Barbara
shrimp, duck sausage and
fresh herbs. The shrimp piz-
za is pure heaven.
"The pastas are equally
delicious and original. We
recommend the ravioli filled
with lobster for a real taste
treat.
"The fish is the freshest to
be found. It's grilled with a
smattering of butter and gar-
nished with sweet onion.
"Chicken, duck and squab
are grilled to perfection and
fish soups are seasoned with
exotic herbs.
"We couldn't resist the
desserts and chose homemade
coffee ice cream with
chocolate sauce and a fresh-
baked brownie.
"Our waiter was experienc-
ed and suggested the dishes
we enjoyed. We didn't spot any
movie stars, but we did notice
the beautiful people having a
fun evening.
"Spago isn't inexpensive,
but it's all it is cracked up to
be. •
"Another unique restau-
rant with duplicate in the
Detroit area is Palm. It's styl-
ed after the New York
original with bright lights,
noise, cartoons on the wall
and no menu.
"The waiters look at the
size of your party and tell you
how many pounds of lobster
to order. All you can get in the
way of entrees are gigantic
Nova Scotia lobsters and
enormous steaks.
"We had creamed spinach,
one of the specialties of the
house. But it can't top the
spinach at Joe Muer's. The
onion rings are prepared in a
loaf and are tasty and
crunchy.
"The price is startling.
With the tip, we figured the
bill close to $50 per person.
But the California crowds
don't seem to mind. Reserva-
tions at this bustling spot
don't guarantee immediate
seating.
"Dim sum and then some is
the motto at Chin Chin's in
West Hollywood. Dim sum
are Chinese appetizers in pro-
fusion so you don't go away
hungry.
"We've never been inside
Chin Chin's, preferring to
dine al fresco and watch the
interesting people and luxury
cars in the passing parade.
"Chinese thicken salad,
shrimp fried rice, chicken
rolls, shrimp dumplings and
tiny spare ribs are just a few
of the delicately prepared
dishes at Chin Chin's. And
the' price is right.
"Malibu Beach at its most
romantic is the setting for
Gladstone's. Dining outside,
gazing at the water and the
lovers on the beach is an ex-
perience. Young couples in
foreign cars flock to
Gladstone's night after night.
"The seafood at this sprawl-
ing restaurant is among the
best in the area. But the
lobster and crab legs get cold
as you watch panorama.
"Because Detroit isn't a
tourist town, it lacks the
number of trendy, glitzy, over-
priced restaurants of the West
Coast.
"But many Detroit-area
dining spots have more stay-
ing power than those of the
Los Angeles ilk where
travelers are more prevalent
and people are more fickle.
"Among tried-and-true
restaurants is Machus Red
Fox on Thlegraph near Maple.
This lovely place is far more
elegant in decor than any din-
ing room we frequented in
L.A.
"And with all due respect to
Wolfgang Puck, the salad at
Spago can't hold a candle to
the consistently delicious
Machus salad.
"Another success story is
Peppina's on Dix Road in Lin-
coln Park. Owner Mary Dear-
dorff started out about two
decades ago with a drive-in
Italian restaurant on the
same corner.
"She was new to the food
business but the wonderful,
aromatic, freshly made dishes
brought customers in droves
and they kept coming back for
more.
"Peppina's kept expanding.
Everything from the soup to
the wonderful desserts is
made on the premises with
the able assistance of Dear-
dorff s daughter, Paula.
"The walls are lined with
rose quartz and amethyst
-4
416.4
•
The view is great.
The room is less
impressive. It's
filled with big
flower
arrangements. The
elegance is in the
food and the
service.
stones which come from a
mine operated by Deardorffs
husband. Some of the
amethyst has been picked off
but the glimmer is still there.
"Also on display are ar-
tifacts made of precious
stones and jewelry is for sale.
"Lelli's on Woodward and
Bethune has long been touted
as the Roman Colosseum of
Italian restaurants where
everything from the place to
the portions is huge.
"We were there recently,
after many years and ordered
dinner on the light side.
Maybe that was a mistake.
The food as we remember it
was much better when we
weren't worried about weight
and cholesterol.
"Another old standby we
revisited is Laffrey's on Seven
Mile and Telegraph, where
the steaks on the hearth are
still tender and tasty.
"Ristorante di Modesta on
Northwestern Highway in
Southfield is making a strong
comeback after a major fire
destroyed the building.
"The chic restaurant is
drawing capacity crowds with
reservations hard to come by
1lb
JP.