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An Israeli pays her taxi driver at Jerusalem's Jaffa Gate.
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40
FRIDAY, MARCH 17, 1989
Israeli Buses, Taxis
Provide Cheap Thrills
'ye often wondered why
people the world over
pay good money to go on
thrilling rides at amusement
parks when, for a mere frac-
tion of the cost, they can en-
joy the same excitement in an
Israeli bus or taxi.
No matter how long you
plan to be in the Holy Land,
the necessity of getting from
one spot to another, or dragg-
ing several kilos of groceries
from one store to home, will
make reliance on some sort of
public transport inevitable.
Bus rides and taxi journeys
are equally thrilling, yet each
has its individual distinctive
qualities and ambiance, so
that comparison of the two is
not really fair.
The challenge of the bus
journey begins even before
you board. As you join the
writhing, jostling masses
pushing to be first in line, you
may get some idea_ of what
awaits you. The only advan-
tage of getting on early that
I can think of is getting a
seat. In general, people give
up their seats only for other
riders who are clearly 1) over
96 years old or 2) in their last
two days of pregnancy.
As not all buses are air-
conditioned, the cruse of
massed bodies inside can
make a bus ride moderately
to severely uncomfrotable.
During one particularly hot
spell in the winter, one well-
meaning passenger tried to
open a window to let a little
air in. A middle-aged women
in the crowd adamantly refus-
ed to allow him this privilege,
pointing out that "but this is
February," even if it happen-
ed to be 90 degrees outside.
The driver's attitude and
on-board entertainment are
as informal as the decor. Don't
be shocked by your first
glimpse of a driver decked out
in shorts, undershirt and san-
dals. After all, it's hot for him,
too. Entertainment during
your journey may be provided
by either the driver's bored
kids, who are spending vaca-
tion cooped up on daddy's bus,
or more usually by some
music program on Israel
Radio that happens to suit
the driver's fancy. I shall
forever associate Frank
Sinatra's version of "Love and
Marriage" with a particular
stretch of grazing land out-
side of Rehovot.
Once a big, lumbering bus
gets going with a noisy shift
of gears, its maneuverability
and speed will amaze you.
One never fails to be awed by
the fact that narrow byways
dating from the Ottoman Em-
pire and meant to be travers-
ed by donkeys are driven
down at 60 miles per hour by
some nonchalant Egged bus
driver.
The speed on a thorough-
fare is one thing, but round-
ing curves is another. There is
one narrow alleyway in
Jerusalem's Old City that is
just barely wide enough to ac-
commodate one fully loaded
camel (two humps). For some
reason, it is at just this point
in the route that bus drivers
traditionally gun their
engines and proceed at full
speed. You wait for the sound
of metal scraping cobblestone,
but miraculously, this does
not occur — usually, anyhow.
Veteran pedestrians in the
vicinity quickly learn at the
first sound of a diesel engine
to flatten themselves against
the walls of adjacent
buildings and suck in those
protruding pot bellies.
It's a toss-up as to who is
worse off — the pedestrian or
the bus passenger who's try-
ing to tote his shoping home.
Passengers' cargoes in Israel
have more character and