THE DIASPORA Two Doors I t was a mere detail. Insignificant if unknown; resonant with mean- ing if recognized. What I wanted to find was so simple, so easily claimed. It was like the childhood game of hot potato where an object is hidden and the closer one gets the louder the cries of "getting warmer" sound. As I walked through the streets, of first one Swiss village, and eventually the other, I found myself getting warmer, getting closer. Finally in the damp mist I found what I was seeking. The simplest of discoveries: an old, abandoned house with two near-identical entrance doors, standing side by side. It was a sign and a symbol: a reminder of a Jewish presence I knew little about. • Individual Jews reached what is now Switzerland with the Roman legions in the 3rd century and small Jewish communities existed in Zurich, Basel, Berne and St. Gall dur- ing the early Middle Ages. But in the 14th century the situation began to change dramatically and for the worse. When the great plague reached Switzerland Jews were blamed for the horrors. Many were burned at the stake for causing the Black Death and many more were accused. By the end of the 14th century, Jews were so effectively expelled or persecuted that Switzerland was for all intents and purposes a land with no Jews. This state of affairs lasted until shortly after the Thirty Years War (1618-1648) when Jews from the Alsace and Rhenania obtained limited permission to settle in nor- thern Switzerland in what later became the canton of Aargau. Jews were granted permits, letters of protection and the right to live and work — primarily as horse and cattle traders — in Aargau, more specifical- ly in the towns of Lengnau and En- dingen. And for more than 200 years these two villages, and they alone, re- mained the sole area of permanent Jewish settlement in all of Switzerland. Over the years the Jewish com- munities of Endingen and Lengnau waged the long and difficult struggle A Jewish house in Endigen. Switzerland's Jewish history is often hidden in double reminders SUSAN LUDMER-GLIEBE Special to The Jewish News for Jewish emancipation in Switzerland, a struggle which was won only in 1878 when Jews were granted full civil rights. The two towns are considered the "cradle of Swiss Jewry." The successful fight for emancipa- tion led, ironically, to their own demise. Jews from the villages left the region for other parts of Switzerland in the middle of the 19th century. What was once a combined communi- ty that numbered in the thousands now numbers less than half-dozen Jews. Searching for houses with two doors seemed an odd way to confirm the existence of two important Jewish communities. But it wasn't. The Jewish homes of Lengnau and En- dingen, and only they, had two en- trance doors. Local law limited the number of Jewish houses and forbade Jews and Christians to live under the same roof. Though not known for certain, it appears that when Christians had to enter the house of a Jew they were required to use the door reserved for them and only them. The houses are not the only reminder of the Jewish presence. Both villages built impressive, handsome synagogues. The synagogue in En- dingen was especially noteworthy with its gold clock and beautifully ar- ched windows. Since the keepers of the synagogue key, the brothers Bloch-Meyers, weren't at home when I visited I decided to continue on. A few miles south of Endingen on the road to Lengnau there's a huge, walled Jewish burial ground, the Waldfriedhof, which is a quiet reminder of the communities that once were. Hundreds and hundreds of gravestones stood in a copse of rustl- ing trees. The gate to the cemetery was locked. But as we were leaving we notic- ed a small car driving up to the cemetery. A group of young Orthodox men stepped out with prayer books and water buckets in hand. They tried, unsuccessfully, to open the lock. Several of the men left to find another key. Eventually they returned. "There's another gate, another en- THE DETROIT JEWISH NEWS 93