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Down the road and over the mountains in Sebastopol is the only winery in California exclusively devoted to kosher wines, Gan Eden. Under his father's tutelage, its president and winemaker, 31-year old Craig Winchell, developed a taste for premium wines at a young age. "Dad had an excellent wine cellar," he says, "and I grew up sharing his hobby — learn- ing about wines and drinking the world's finest." An in- direct route led from wine connoisseur to winemaker: majoring in chemistry at the University of Louisville in his hometown, transferring to Haverford College, in Penn- sylvania, as a chemical phy- sics major, then leaving col- lege to sell wine retail. "Knowing what I knew, it was easy to sell wine," Win- chell says. After he entered the business, he decided to get a technical background and entered the Department of Viniculture at the Univer- sity of California-Davis, where he met his wife, Jen- nifer Lum, a food technology maj or. Following graduation with departmental honors and a year of graduate -study, he became chief winemaker at a small nonkosher winery in Washington State and pro- duced two award-winning wines. Feeling isolated from Jewish life and unable to adhere to Sabbath obser- vance, he returned to Califor- nia — to a small nonkosher winery, where he arranged a contract that released him from work on Saturday. "But when problems arose, I had to work on Shabbos, and I felt guilty," he says. Starting Gan Eden in 1985, Winchell remains in wine pro- duction on his own terms, purchasing grapes from near- by farmers. He produced 25,000 cases in 1987. He and Jennifer are the company's only full-time employees. The first California pre- mium kosher wines came from the renowned Napa Val- - ley, where Ernie Weir pro- duced Hagafen Cellars' first vintage in 1980. After gra- duating from University of California Los Angeles, as a sociology major, he had his first agricultural experience in Israel on a kibbutz, "col- lecting eggs in the chicken house and picking grapefruit in the orchard," he says. Back - in California, he bypassed his hometown, Los Angeles, and earned a master's degree from UC-Davis in viniculture. "I found you could work in agriculture and still be so- phisticated," he says. "My first job was in vineyard ma- nagement with a large Napa Valley winery." Besides mak- ing Hagafen wines, he still holds a full-time management job. Married to an Israeli he met in California, Weir de- scribes himself as "culturally Jewish." He attends a Conser- vative synagogue, and doesn't work on Friday after- noon, Saturday, or Jewish holidays. His wine production is supervised by the Rabbinic Council of San Francisco. "I make the stylistic deci- sions. Rather than say we make kosher wines, I prefer -to say we make Napa Valley pre- mium varietal wines that are also kosher," he says. Haga- fen's 1987 production was 7,000 cases. At Napa Creek Winery, where Ernie Weir produces