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November 04, 1988 - Image 28

Resource type:
The Detroit Jewish News, 1988-11-04

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Mediterranean Mind Mips


Special to The Jewish News

Shirley Stern. Sinai J1

A nice hot bowl of chicken
soup can often make you feel
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"Mediterranean Cooking"
by Claudia Roden includes all
the countries that touch on
the Mediterranean Sea, while
"A Taste of Morocco: A Cul-
inary Journey with Recipes"
by Robert Carrier specializes
in just one. While Roden hap-
pens to be Jewish and men-
tions her Sephardic-Egypt-
ian-Syrian Jewish heritage a
few times in her book, both
books contain several non-
kosher recipes, particularly
for the seafood so prevalent in
the area.
However, there are many
recipes that would be de-
lightful and unusual for the
kosher kitchen (or could be
easily adapted), and they
would provide a delicious and
stimulating background for a
Mediterranean day at home.
Especially nice for this time
of year, many dishes call for
fresh vegetables and fruits,
and Roden's book includes a
chapter on grilled meats.
Both books are a pleasure
to peruse. The beginning of
Roden's book features an ex-
cellent chapter on "in-
gredients" which includes
individual photographs and
descriptions of fruits, vege-
tables, fish, dairy products,
beans, grains, oils, olives,
pasta, preserves, and an
amazing array of seasonings
and flavorings, making it
easy to identify strange pro-
ducts from abroad. Also, help-
ful is the text preceding
recipes that provides inter-
esting information such as
the origin of the dish or how
it should be served.
In her fascinating preface
and introduction, Roden
points out that her book fea-
tures an assortment of ap-
pealing, representative dishes
served by families, not res-
taurants. Interestingly, Car-
rier says almost the same
thing about his provocative
Moroccan recipes. Through-
out the Mediterranean (in-
cluding, of course, Israel), it is
the custom to freely open
one's home to all guests,
always providing — at the
very least — tasty food and
drink. And it is this family
fare that is arguably the best
in these countries.
Because both books were or-
iginally published in Great
Britain, there may be some
slight confusion for the Amer-
ican cook. For instance, words
such as flavor are spelled
"flavour" and certain ingre-
dients and directions use
British, rather than Ameri-

can, culinary terminology. In
Carrier's book, the American
term is frequently in paren-
thesis following the British
one, but in Roden's book, you
must often interpret this
yourself. Also, both books give
some amounts in metric
followed by comparable
British measurements (in-
cluding certain solid ingre-
dients by weight), though
Carrier's book sometimes pro-
vides more familiar American
Following are some recipes
from "Mediterranean Cook-
ing" and "A Taste of Moroc-
co." I have tried to choose
those that would be ap-
propriate for summer dining.
(Israeli Avocado
and Citrus Salad)
This recipe is from
"Mediterranean Cooking."
Says the author, "The bland-
ness of the avocado and sharp-
ness of the citrus fruits com-
bine very refreshingly in this
Juice of 1 lemon
4 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper
2 ripe but firm avocado
1 orange
1 grapefruit
Garnish: Mint leaves
Beat the lemon, oil, salt and
pepper in a salad bowl. Peel
the avocados, cut them in half
and remove the stones, then
slice them and turn them in
the dressing. Peel the orange
and grapefruit, removing all
the pith, and cut the flesh in-
to pieces. lbss the fruits in the
dressing. Garnish with mint
leaves. Serves 4-6.
(Grilled Spring Chicken)
This interesting recipe is
from "Mediterranean Cook-
ing." The author explains
that poussins are "spring
chickens," what we might call
Rock Cornish broiler chickens
or small broiler-fryers, I
2 poussins (small
4 tablespoons olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon
1-4 garlic cloves, crushed
2 tablespoons margarine
Bunch of parsley, finely
Lay the chickens breast
down and split them open all
along the backbone. Crack
the breastbone and open the
birds out. Cut the wing and

Continued on Page 30

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