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78
FRIDAY, OCTOBER 7, 1988
ntinued on Page 8,07
The Pressing Lure Of
Fresh Apple Cider
GLORIA KAUFER GREENE
ecial to The Jewish News
he rustle of flame-
colored leaves, the
bright warmth of sunny days
and chill of nippy nights,
doorways delightfully decked
with pumpkins and Indian
corn, Jack Frost on roof tops:
these are some of the autum-
nal sights and sensations that
stimulate nostalgic remem-
brances of my childhood.
My most potent seasonal
memory jogger of all,
however, is a sip of freshly-
pressed apple cider — sweet-
ly savored as it rolls over the
tongue and palate, then
soothingly slides down the
throat. Just one sip of cider
(never through a straw!)
causes a torrent of recollec-
tions to flood my mind.
One sip and there I am,
back in northeastern Penn-
sylvania, driving along the
narrow country roads with
my parents and younger
sisters. It is a sunny Sunday
afternoon. The foliage is
magnificent and the air is
amazingly fresh and crisp —
a perfect fall day.
Alongside the weaving
roadway, small local stands
enticingly display the last of
the fall harvest: pumpkins
and incredible-looking
squashes; gourds in every
imaginable size, shape, and
hue; pears and apples; and, at
a very few special spots,
homemade cider.
We stop at one particularly
appealing place, and file out
of the car toward a rustic barn
behind a large farmhouse. In-
side, we find a large, wooden
cider mill surrounded by emp-
ty jugs. What, no cider? Wait!
Here comes the apples rolling
down a narrow chute into the
washing apparatus. After
cleaning, they are ground in-
to a mush and spread in
wooden, cloth-lined frames.
We watch, entranced, as a
very tall stack containing
many layers of cloth-wrapped
apples is prepared. Then, in
just a few minutes, a
hydraulic press squeezes the
whole stack into a small
mound of apple residue. We
are amazed that so much can
so quickly become so little.
A fragrant aroma fills the
air, and we notice that the
special holding tank is now
full of a wonderful dark nec-
tar. A sample of fresh cider
directly from the tank's
spigot assures us that the ap-
ples' loss is our gain. Once
again, our annual trek into
the countryside has paid off.
We fill our car with as much
cider as our refrigerator, my
aunt's refrigerator and a
neighbor's refrigerator will
hold, plus one extra jug to get
"hard" on the back porch. (So
what if there's not enough
room in the car for one of my
sisters! We eventually
manage to cram her in, too.)
The next few weeks, my
meals and snacks are accom-
panied by a cloudy brown
drink that is so rich and
flavorful I think of it as "li-
quid apples!' And when it is
gone, I look forward to our
next visit to the cider mill,
knowing that plain old clear
"apple juice" from the store
just won't come close to the
real thing.
Indeed, to compare freshly
pressed, unadulterated cider
to commercially processed,
pasteurized, filtered (and
sometimes preserved) apple
juice is, to my thinking, a
travesty. They are worlds
apart. Both may taste very
good, but certainly not the
same.
Interestingly, there is dif-
ference of opinion among
some of the experts on the cor-
rect terminology for different
types of apple drinks. One
source insists that the word
cider refers to fermented
beverages only, based on its
original colonial connotation.
(In this sense, there can be ap-
ple cider, pear cider, or other
fruit ciders.) This author says
that prior ,to fermentation,
even the unfiltered drink is
apple juice.
However, most other writers
concur that sweet cider is the
unfiltered, unadulterated
drink which has the potential
to ferment, but has not yet
done so or barely begun the
process.
Supermarket products are
just as confusing. In most
cases, those labeled apple
juice contain the clear,
filtered drink; however, some
apple juices taste more like
freshly-pressed cider. And, oc-
casionally, the term cider is
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