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72

FRIDAY, JULY 22, 1988

hen Susie Guiora
served in the Israeli
army over 30 years
ago, the Israel Defense Forces
sent her to a cooking school
where she completed a six-
month course. "It was mass
cooking," Guiora recalls. "It
was awful!' The experience
left a bad taste in her mouth.
"I became thoroughly disen-
chanted with cooking!"
Guiora's feelings didn't last
forever. "When my son Amos
was born in 1957, I was great- .
ly encouraged to try out
recipes!'
Ever since, Guiora and
cooking have gotten along
famously. She currently
teaches at the Tnuva Cooking
Schools in Haifa, Tel Aviv and
Jerusalem; and at the Tad-
mor Hotel School in Herzliya.
In keeping with her
nickname, "The Traveling
Gourmet" ' (that's to
distinguish her from the
Galloping Gourmet, Guiora
jokes, since she doesn't
gallop), Guiora also gives
classes in New York, Connec-
ticut, Ohio and Ann Arbor,
which was her home for 22
years and to which she
returns every summer.
"I'm very attached to Ann
Arbor,' says Guiora, who
maintains a small apartment
on the west side of town, but
manages to cook some
substantial meals from her
diminutive state-side kitchen.
"In this kitchen last summer
I cooked for 50 people. It was
no big deal?'
Although Guiora is known
in Haifa as a microwave cook-
ing expert, her real love and
forte is Hungarian cooking
generally and Hungarian
pastries especially. This
autumn her book, tentative-
ly titled "Pastries and
Desserts of Hungary," will be
published in Hebrew.
Many of the recipes that ap-
pear in the book are family
ones that have been noted
and remembered through
wars and revolutions. "I was
aware that my father, in his
neat handwriting, had
transcribed family recipes fill-
ing a few notebooks," explain-
ed Guiora.
Her father even carefully
noted the sources: Aunt Her-
mina, Esther H., Aunt Lily, or
Guiora's maternal grand-
mother, who was an excellent
pastry maker. "Over the
years I looked at the recipes
and at the family picture
albums. They would remind

Susia Guiora had to unscramble recipes that ended with: "Bake until
done."
me of my childhood in
Eszterhazy Torte which is a
Budapest!'
five-layered-concoction of
In preparing the book,
meringue, walnuts, eggs, but
Guiora also did some in-depth
ter cream, covered with fon-
work in the field. She
dant and topped with dribbl-
revisited Budapest and found
ed chocolate, is not for the
that the sweets were just as
faint of heart or the wide of
sweet as before. She visited
width.
several pastry shops, in-
Some cooks are known to
cluding Vorosmarty in Pest
stay clear of pastry making
which is now a national
and that's not due solely to
monument.
their concern with calories.
"Vorosmarty is huge,"
"In cooking, you can do pinch
Guiora says. "On any one day
here and there," Guiora ad-
it has 90 different kinds of
mits. "You can go by feel and
pastries — tortes, bars, petit
taste." But desserts are dif-
fours, cakes!'
ferent and their recipes have
It's possible, Guiora points
to represent that difference.
out, to stay in Budapest for
over three months and sam-
A serving of Rigo
ple a different pastry each
Jancsi is not for
day. She even managed a side
the faint of heart
trip to Vienna for some com-
or the wide of
parison testing. "It was grati-
fying to find that Austrian
width.
strudle wasn't as good (as
Guiora points out that she
Hungarian strudle)."
had a lot of work to do with
What distinguishes Hunga-
her own family recipes, which
rian desserts from that
often ended with words:
of other Central European
"Bake until done!"
countries? Guoria points out
Guiora straddles several
that the Turkish conquest of
food worlds and she reflects
Hungary in the 16th century
on the difference between the
left a very important imprint.
United States and Israel.
The extensive use of crushed
"People generally are quite
poppy seed, almonds,
conservative in their tastes
walnuts, hazel nuts and the
and in Israel that's more so!"
use of apricot and raspberry
Guiora relates that in one of
preserves also characterize
her classes she made a mocha
Hungarian baking.
pound cake that got definite
It's important to note, too,
thumbs-down reviews. There
that sour cream is used to
was nothing wrong with it.
make basic yeast dough. "I
"People just didn't like it!" It
would say that there's an
tasted strange to them.
overriding emphasis on
There are other differences
understatedness. Cakes are
as well. Two years ago, Guiora
more subtle, for example,"
says, two large Israeli food
says Guoria. "They're not full
companies, at enormous cost,
of gooey stuff?'
tried to introduce cake mixes
Well, maybe not, but even
to the consumer. "You could
Guoria has to admit that a
say it fell flat!'
serving of Rigo Jancsi (Gypsy
The explanation? "Jewish
lbrte) which is made with 10
mothers felt it was
eggs, lots of melted chocolate
cheating!'
and whipped cream, or