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Delicatessen Mixes New Age
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Zingermans owners: Delicatessen patrons are concerned with health, nutrition and image.
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31150 HAGGERTY RD. • 14 MILE
FARMINGTON HILLS
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70
FRIDAY, JULY 1, 1988
FRANCINE ALLEN
Special to The Jewish News
T
here is no one named
Zingerman behind the
well-known Ann Arbor
deli at 422 Detroit Street.
Nonetheless, like the food and
the atmosphere found here,
the name does have a certain
— well — zing to it.
Zingermans reflects Ann
Arbor's laid-back, new-age at-
mosphere and a noticeable
trend away from fast foods
toward healthier fare. But the
restaurant's menu is in no
way sacrificed to the god of
nutrition. We're talking good
old fashioned home cooking
here: knishes, blintzes,
chicken soup, chopped liver,
chopped herring and kugel,
all prepared on the premises.
Beyond traditional deli
staples, however, are more ex-
otic items, such as Bulgarian
cucumber soup and cabbage
beef borscht. Zingermans, in
fact, is a deli with interna-
tional flair: A selection of the
world's best cheeses spans the
length of an entire wall; on
wooden shelves, fine
chocolates abound, as does
Canadian wild rice, wines,
olives, jams, teas and pastas
from around the world.
The key to healthy food are
ingredients made by tradi-
tional methods rather than
by processing. For example,
Vermont cheddar is the only
cheddar cheese Zingermans
sells. Co-owner Ari Wein-
zweig notes the irony of _
customer's complaints that
the cheddar cheese sold is not
the familiar color yellow —
Vermont cheddar is all
natural and has no coloring.
Weinzweig says that the
type of cooking and eating
that Zingermans espouses fits
today's on-the-go lifestyle. "I
rarely cook anything that
takes more than a half hour
to an hour to make," he says,
explaining that a great meal
is possible with a few basic
quality ingredients, whereas
"If you have four really lousy
ingredients, you have to
(spend extra time to) come up
with a sauce to give a flavor
that wasn't there."
On a Wednesday morning,
Weinzweig and another of
three co-owners, Paul
Saginaw, talk to a frequent
customer, Jason Finkle, about
foods suited to a low-
cholesterol diet. Weinzweig
suggests a dish including
Italian rice, spices and onions.
This dish takes 18-20 minutes
to prepare. "You might need
to take the day off from work,"
Weinzweig jokes.
In addition to health and
nutrition, Zingermans is also
concerned with image. This
eatery has its own three-
person art department whose
posters, fliers and monthly
newsletters (with menu) seem
to greet the eye at every turn.
Zingermans publications
bear the deli's name, written
in neon-like calligraphy — a
motif echoed in flourescent
green and orange on Zinger-
mans tee shirts. Food itself
becomes a major part of the
decor, displayed proudly, in all
its color and variety, against
a background of wire cafe
chairs and a checkerboard tile
floor.
The restaurant is larger
than might be guessed from
looking at the small store-
front exterior. Arched sky-
lights enhance the feeling of
spaciousness, not to mention
that the quantity of foods and
artwork displayed leaves one
with the impression that the
restaurant must be large in
order to hold it all.