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HURON (M-59) ATLAERsATN PONTIAC 681-5277 DAILY 9 to 7 FRI. 9 to 9 SUNDAY 12 to 4 A lmost every little girl loves to play "tea par- ty" with her young friends or perhaps just some well-behaved dolls who pa- tiently sit and watch as make- believe tea is poured and imaginary cakes are served. But, for some reason, when American children grow up, we tend to forget about this charming and relaxing cus- tom that is a long-standing English tradition. Granted, several luxury hotels throughout the United States have revived "afternoon tea" —usually served between 3 p.m. and 6 p.m. — in their large lobbies. And small tea shops, patterned after the popular British institutions, have even popped up around the country. But we still don't think of "taking tea" as a way to entertain guests at home. Recently, I came across a delightful new cookbook that convincingly explains how a tea party can be an enjoyable and satisfying way to cele- brate many special occasions. While perusing The Pleasures of Afternoon Tea by Angela Hymes, it occurred to me that a formal tea party would be absolutely perfect for Mother's Day. As Hymes points out, a tea party requires much less ex- pense and fuss than most other kinds of parties or com- pany meals. If Dad and the children are so inclined, homemade baked goods would be ideal to serve at a tea party, and would certain- ly make Mom feel quite special. However, dainty cakes and cookies purchased from a good bakery, light sandwiches, or cut-up fresh fruit (such as strawberries with some whipped cream) would also be quite suitable. What is typically served at a British afternoon tea? Hymes — a native of Man- chester, England who has lived in the United States since 1979 — explains that the fare is quite flexible and can include cookies, petits fours, crackers, light sand- wiches and other "savories," scones, buns, muffins, pies, pastries, cake or fresh fruit. She explains that care should be given to details to ensure that the tea party stands out above ordinary afternoon snacks. For instance, the best china and cloth napkins should be used, and the tea should be brewed at the table in a cer- amic or glass teapot. Accord- ing to Hymes, it is much bet- ter to use loose tea in the pot, or perhaps a metal "tea ball," than teabags. She suggests choosing an interesting type of tea such as Earl Grey or Darjeeling, both of which are packaged by sev- eral different companies. In The Pleasures of Afternoon Tea, Hymes describes several types of green and black tea. She also gives explicit direc- tions on the best way to make a pot of tea, and how to store any leftover tea leaves. The food served at a tea par- ty should be displayed in an attractive manner on the best serving pieces available. Good quality paper doilies can add elegance to less elaborate platters. Tea can be taken in the living room, family room, or formal dining room, but preferably not in the kitchen. Soft, classical music in the background will do much for the ambience, and encourage a relaxed feeling. Afternoon teas should be peaceful and sedate with a touch of digni- ty — just the thing to delight (and surprise!) many usually harried moms. In her book, Hymes pre- sents the interesting history of tea, and tells how tea par- ties in America suffered a ma- jor setback when colonial revolutionaries disavowed tea drinking after their big tea party in Boston harbor. She also explains the difference between afternoon tea and "high tea" (the latter being a full meal taken in the early Continued on Page 80