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March 26, 1988 - Image 96

Resource type:
Text
Publication:
The Detroit Jewish News, 1988-03-26

Disclaimer: Computer generated plain text may have errors. Read more about this.

FOR MEN:
A GLOBAL APPEAL

BY CHUCK BENNETT

very year a new
catch phrase or word
is introduced to
sum up the general
feeling of fashion for that given
year. In seasons past, menswear
has been "dapper" "dandy,"
and "elegant." This year, with a
blending of American, English,
Italian and French fashion
elements, the catch word is
"international."

— E41II

A

Based on the presentations by
the Men's Fashion Association's
spring/summer '88 press
preview, held in Chicago earlier
this year, the exclusive features
that once distinguished the
fashion offerings from these
countries are fading. For
instance, the fitted suits and
dress shirts traditionally
produced by the French and
Italians get a more relaxed
American interpretation while
conversely, the American Ivy
League sack suit gets a sleeker
shape with detailing inspired by
Britain's custom tailors. The
result is a more global appeal in
styles for men.
"It's a refreshing change to
see this crossover of design
influence," says Chip Tolbert,
fashion director of the MFA. The
new international style reflects
the power of international
communications, plus the power
of films and television shows like
"Wall Street' and "L.A. Law"
which showcase new style
statements and continue to
make men feel comfortable with
new apparel choices."

92

IN STYLE

The new season also offers
men the opportunity to dress
most outfits up or down,
according to local menswear
retailers. "There's an easier,
softer look to tailored clothing,
while sportswear dresses up
with fancier fabrics and intricate
details," explains Harry Kosins of
Kosins Clothes in Southfield.
Suits and sport coats are
lighter in weight, featuring more
resilient facings, semi-linings
and, again, easier draping.
Semi-constructed suits have
evolved into the new term soft
construction.
At R Grumet, in West
Bloomfield, refinements of this
new international theme are
most heavily influenced by the
Italian silhouette, including suits
with a fuller chest, large
shoulders, a lower button stance,
wider lapels and a slightly
suppressed waist. Besom
pockets, ventless backs and
breast patch pockets also
hallmark the new models.
"Trousers are cut fuller with
double and even triple pleats
with tapered bottoms for an
elegant drape," adds Bobby
Grumet.
While single-breasted,
low-notch lapel, two-piece suits
were most popular at the
preview in Chicago, lots of
double-breasted variations and
three-button single-breasted
choices were shown as well.
"Double-breasted suits are no
longer considered a fashion
Continued on Page 114

A BLEND OF EUROPEAN
AND AMERICAN STYLES
THIS SEASON PRODUCES
A TRANS-ATLANTIC
LOOK FOR MEN.

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