Silhouettes for dress shirts continue to swing from fitted to more square and boxy. White, pink and blue — the basic colors in a man's dress shirt wardrobe — are joined this season by strong pastels, such as peach, aqua and maize, used as solids or in a variety of accent stripe combinations. Retailers say that while men are still a little slow in accepting linen suits, linen and linen-look sport shirts are very popular, taking their cue from dress shirts in silhouette and color. "Sport shirts are important this season because they're great under a softly constructed, boxy jacket for that not-so-serious dressed up casual look," observes Grumet. Grumet went on to say with designers bridging the gap between sportswear and tailored clothing, the customer is left the option of making his outfit serious or not-so-serious. Many separates have become related shirts, pants, shorts, sweaters and jackets — that are used collectively for a more pulled together effect. Washed silks, crinkled linen and textured polyester/rayon or viscose blends are a sampling of the new fabric treatments that invigorate the traditional natural fabrics for summer. Some designers were very innovative with these new fabrics, such as Kermit Smith for Krunch, who shows a black silk/rayon blazer, with a matching shirt and matching pull-on trousers, or the washed silk duster, shirt, T-shirt, and pants from Zylos by George Machado. Two major color stories dominate the season's sportswear: nautical and sundrenched. The more regimented nautical interpretations include the expected red, white and blue, while combinations of kelly green and purple, and jade and navy present new choices. "Vivid colors are very SPRING '88 115