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84
FRIDAY, OCT. 9, 1987
The Hallah Book'
For Fall Holiday Baking
e are in the midst of
Sukkot and the Fall
Holidays are soon to
end, but for many Jewish
cooks it is just the beginning
of their seasonal baking
sprees. Many bakers prefer to
avoid a hot oven during the
summer, but are delighted to
rediscover their mixing bowls
and pans in time for the
holidays.
Sukkot, in particular,
seems to signify that fall is
truly here, and puts me in the
mood for baking yeast bread
with its wonderful aroma and
flavor. Homemade bread goes
perfectly with the hearty
casseroles and stuffed foods
that are typical of Sukkot.
Perhaps that is why I have
recently taken a particular
interest in The Hallah Book:
Recipes, History and Dyidi-
tions by Freda Reider
(Adama Books, 1987, hard-
cover, 88 pp., $12.95).
About 10 years ago, Ms.
Reider happened upon a
collection of photographs.
showing several traditional
interpretations of hallah (her
spelling; also spelled challah).
It inspired her to reproduce
those breads, and also to
create her own shapes repre-
senting Jewish symbols and
holidays. She subsequently
taught workshops in the San
Francisco Bay Area and accu-
mulated so much research
material on all aspects of
hallah baking that she felt
compelled to write a book.
The Hallah Book is very
comprehensive, and makes
for fascinating reading. Ms.
Reider includes the history of
hallah as a religious bread,
descriptions of the many dif-
ferent traditional shapes it
has been baked into over the
years, and variations of
ceremonial bread baked by
Jews of all different back-
grounds and how they use it
for religious celebration.
She also goes into depth on
the practical aspects of how
to bake hallah — including
the ingredients and tech-
niques — and discusses how
to guild the lily; that is, to
garnish the sculpted loaves
with embellishments, finishes
and glazes.
Twenty-one different meth-
ods of braiding and shaping
are described and illustrated
with line drawings (drawn by
one of the author's sons) and
small black-and-white photo-
graphs (taken by her hus-
band). There's even a hallah
designed specifically for Suk-
kot that features cut-outs of
the "Four Species." The
wipeable hard cover of the
88-page book shows 20 of the
lovely breads in full color.
In addition to covering the
edible aspects of hallah bak-
ing, Ms. Reider also tells how
to cover the hallah itself. She
includes an overview of hallah
covers, and describes how to
make an unusual one at
home.
In The Hallah Book, Ms.
Reider also considers the per-
sonal feelings we attach to
hallah by including a nostal-
gic section on "Scenes and
Memories" in which she
describes her own fond recol-
lections of hallah from her
past and that of her friends
and acquaintances.
An appendix by B. Asher
called `The Laws and
Customs of Separating
Hallah" explains the religious
obligations that go with bak-
ing hallah, and includes the
proper blessings.
All in all, this is an in-
teresting book that is sure to
give you new insight into
what you may have formerly
thought was a simple bread,
and may even add special
meaning to your own hallah
baking.
The Hallah Book should be
available at bookstores, but if
you prefer, you can contact
the publisher for direct order
information. Write to: KTAV
Publishing House, Inc., 900
Jefferson Street, Box 6249,
Hoboken, NJ 07030-7205.
•
The following basic hallah
recipe from The Hallah Book
Continued on Page 86