CONTRAST

■

Northwestern
Highway

36 FALL 87

Between
12 & 13 Mile Roads

short leather skirts come in
shiny calfskin or soft suede;
sometimes, the two finishes are
combined — for example, a
suede hip yoke on a calfskin
skirt. The designer also shows
trousers for day, in grey flannel
or black and white striped wool,
with one-button tailored jackets.
For evening, bright colors
pink with red, turquoise with
blue, orange with yellow — are
combined in satin suits. Some
satin skirts, worn with snug
ribbed sweaters, have uneven
hemlines that dip in back, curve
up at one side, or are edged
with ruffles or feathers. Besides
the bright colors, Saint Laurent
offers shapely black silk dresses
and body-baring black chiffon
dresses.
Figure-
Emanuel Ungaro
revealing clothes that are se-
ductive but not tawdry; new
fabrics and combinations of fab-
rics — these are the highlights
of Ungaro's collection. He com-
bines flower print fabrics with
leather, and gives a new metal-
lic finish to his leather skirts.
Ungaro likes hoods, especially
attached to wool and wool-
blend jackets that have front
pleating and gathered sleeves.
The waist-length jackets are of-
ten teamed with short skirts in
gold, bronze or silver metallic
leather.
Other day looks include leath-
er jackets, lined in quilted silk,
that are paired with form-fitting
silk or wool dresses. Flower
prints turn up in coats and jack-
ets that are worn over short
quilted velvet skirts. Long tail-
ored jackets are teamed with
short skirts; and swirling dres-
ses have narrow waistlines.

Milan has emerged as a
1.71fashion capital to rival Paris.
Giorgio Armani is probably the
best known among the Italian
designers, but other strong
voices are being heard, notably
Gianni Versace, Gianfranco
Ferre, Fendi, and Krizia. Mario
Valentino and Missoni have

already established their reputa-
tions. Romeo Gigli is rated the
most fashion forward of the
young designers; other names
to watch are Laura Biagiotti,
Moschino and Soprani.
Although there are diverse
elements, overall the Italian
fashion scene is hailed for the
wearability of the clothes:
understated, well tailored styles,
comfortable fit, muted colors
and patterns. Clothes are lively
and youthful, never gaudy. Coat
proportions run the gamut from
the long and narrow to the full,
wide-swinging in both short and
long lengths.
Giorgio Armani — Called the
master of "gentle tailoring," Ar-
mani shapes his jacket with
softer, rounder shoulders, and a
more fitted waistline. But the silk
and wool patterned fabrics re-
main so light and supple that

F rench and Italian

designers are in
agreement on the
general trends for
fashion this fall.
But they have
chosen different
ways to express
them.

the jackets fit like sweaters. The
collarless V-neck jacket is still in
evidence, worn this season with
vests of the same fabric as the
jacket. The jackets are paired
with graceful full skirts that have
turned-up hemlines, for a "har-
em" effect.
Trousers have pleats at the
waist, and are full at the hips.
An alternative to skirts and
trousers are knee-length wide-
legged shorts. Ribbed cash-
mere shawls, tossed over
tailored suits and over evening
outfits, too, are sure to be a hit.
The plaid and herringbone pat-