IS FALL '87, FASHION
TAKES A DECIDEDLY
NEW DIRECTION.
PARIS AND MILKS
FIND DIFFERE\ T
WAYS TO INTERPRET
THE LATEST TRBD.

his fall marks the start of
a new fashion trend, and
the end of an old one.
As far as the European
designers are concerned, the
loose, long, oversized look that
has dominated clothes the past
few seasons is now history. In
its place is a new look —
feminine and fitted-to-the-body.
There are two routes to the
latest fashion trend, via Paris
and via Milan. Designers in
those fashion capitals have
come up with different inter-
pretations that express the
same idea.

T

he French point of view is
1 colorful and seductive.
Parisian designers are showing
clothes with fitted waists and
rounded natural shoulders. And,
although there is still a place for
long lengths, the designers
definitely favor short hemlines.
The Italian fashion message is
much the same but in clothes
that have a less hard-edged
look and are in more subdued
colors and patterns.
Naturally, designers in each
city can't be pigeonholed so
easily. Each has found his or
her own way to express the
latest trend, which is, after all,
what makes fashion so exciting.
Paris designers are sending
out several messages for fall.
There are short, close-fitting
jackets and long, flyaway
jackets; acid bright colors and
black. But, according to the
fashion pundits, there are a few
things you can count on. Hoods
are big, used on everything
from coats to sweaters. So is
quilting, on jackets and coats.
Checks and tartan plaids are
the "in" patterns this season.
And, to keep warm beneath the
new miniskirts, women will be
wearing woolly tights. In
general, Paris' fall silhouette
reads: mid-thigh hem length is
the norm; shoulders are less ex-
aggerated; waistlines are snug,
often marked by a wide belt.
That of course represents the

BY BARBARA PASH

fashion mainstream. The avant
garde designers have an entire-
ly different vision of fashion
designers such as Marc Audi-
bet in Paris, Romeo Gigli in
Milan and John Galliano in Lon-
don. The avant garde designers
make clothes for as one fashion
writer put it, the "Young Inno-
cent", a pre-pubescent fashion
child who hobbles along as
best she can in the skintight
stretch fabric clothes created for
her. This fall, she wears mini-
skirts with opaque hosiery and
flats; tight bolero jackets; and lit-
tle or no (or so it seems)
makeup.
Here is what the Paris design-
ers had to offer, with photo-
graphs of the Paris and Milan
shows taken for The Jewish
News by Michael O'Connor.
Azzedine Alaia — Starting
with last spring's collection,
Azzedine has broadened his
design palette. He still makes
some of the most form-fitting
bodysuits and black dresses
shown in Paris, but now he also
offers tailored styles in a range
of colors. New colors include
shades of brown and green,
like khaki and camel, as well as
a soft grey-blue, sea green,
peach and turquoise. These col-
ors appear in thick cable-knit
turtleneck sweaters, high
waisted trousers and cropped
bellhop's jackets, knit trousers
and polo shirts, and short flar-
ing skirts.
For evening, he shows two
styles. The first are flowing pa-
Continued on Page 34

FALL '87 27