A E S SAG E FC) FROM SOPHISTICATED EUROPEAN STYLING TO THE CLASSICS JAllED UP IN NEW COLORS, MALE ATTIRE OFFERS A FEAST OF FASHIONS. BY RUTHAN BRODSKY 13 old silhouettes, patterns and fabrics inspired by the styles of the 30s and 40s and the highly popular film, "The Untouchables," are the center of the men's fall fashion formula. The sophistication of suits mixed with the casualness of unstructured fit and softened pleats furnish men with comfort and style in a dressed-up fashion. The trend leans to the closer- to-the body look, but the silhouette changes are less drastic than last year. The in- terest in unstructured clothing continues for fall with broader shoulders, longer torsos, and ventless backs. Right: All-wool black/white mini- houndstooth check suit with red and blue overplaid, $290, from Hunter Haig. 102 FALL '87 Although menswear is a melting pot of international styles, the predominating in- fluence is Italian, thanks mostly to Giorgio Armani, who, interest- ingly enough, was wardrobe coordinator for "The Untouch- ables." Mixed with lots of Ar- mani there is some British high style and the influence of the laid back American look. "The Italian influence is revolutionizing menswear;" ex- plains Harry Kosins of Kosins Clothes in Lanthrup Village. Consultant to such designers as Cassini, Donati, Fertelli and Giovannelli, Kosins states that even the traditional business- man finds himself influenced by Italian designers. "The Italian look used to be clothes that were very fitted almost tight — but now it focuses on ease and comfort," says Kosins. "Pleated trousers make up 90 percent of the bet- ter clothing market. Shoulders and chest are broader and the bottom of the jacket is closer to the hips, not flared or vented because the total look is