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KEROS CONEYS
COOKING
CATERED CONEY
ISLAND PARTIES FROM THE
FAMILY THAT BROUGHT
YOU THE DOWNTOWN
CONEY ISLANDS. CONEY
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MENTION THE JEWISH NEWS FROM DETROIT
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"creating the possible when you
thought it was impossible"
More International
Jewish Cookery
GLORIA KAUFER GREENE
Special to The Jewish News
Call for appt. 352-2264
s I mentioned in a
previous column, I am
particularly interested
in international Jewish
cuisine and always looking for
cookbooks, such as those
below, that give culinary mes-
sages about Jewish brethren
around the world.
The first is called Moroccan
Jewish Cookery by Viviane
and Nina Moryoussef (J.P.
Taillandier/Sochepress).
Though this cookbook has
scanty copyright and pub-
lishing information, it seems
to have been translated from
the original French version
which was published in 1983
in both Paris and Morocco. (I
purchased my English ver-
sion in a Jewish bookstore in
Tbronto.)
In the introduction, Viviane
Moryoussef explains that
most of the recipes came from
her mother-in-law, Nina
Moryoussef, a native of the
Jewish community • of Es-
saouira. This city on the
Atlantic coast of Morocco is
known for its Jewish
specialties.
Moroccan Jewish Cookery
includes an assortment of
unusual recipes as well as the
authors' descriptions of fami-
ly holiday celebrations. On
Rosh Hashanah, for instance,
an apple is dipped into honey
by the father and then tasted
by each family member "so
that the coming year shall be
gentle and happy?' A tradi-
tional dish of seven vege-
tables with a sheep's head is
served to symbolize merit
and good fortune as well as
the desire to be at the "head"
of one's peers. The Mory-
oussef family usually adds
cinnamon, sugar and saffron
to give this dish "a subtle
fragrance and flavor?'
The second evening of Rosh
Hashanah, new fruits of the
season, such as pomegran-
ates, white grapes, dates and
apples are served. Some
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THE DETROIT JEWISH NEWS
Moroccan families may in-
clude the first green olives of
the year. A dessert of aniseed
and sesame seeds mixed with
sugar is also popular.
lb break the fast of Yom
Kippur, the Moryoussef fami-
ly eats cakes, mint tea and a
frothy egg custard. The next
dday, for the midday meal,
they have chicken cooked
with olives followed by
beraniya, eggplant cooked in
sugar with sesame seeds and
cinnamon.
Those interested in Moroc-
can-Jewish food from an an-
thropologic viewpoint would
probably find Moroccan
Jewish Cooking fascinating.
However, the recipes (which
seem to have been interpreted
for the British, rather than
American, cook) might be
somewhat confusing. For in-
stance, the vague measuring
term "glass" or "small glass"
is used in several recipes, and
sugar and flour are measured
by weight not volume. Also,
certain authentic ingred-
ients — such as a sheep's
head and other animal or-
gans, and excessive amounts
of oil — might not appeal to
modern American cooks.
Another cookbook with ap-
pealing and easier to follow
recipes is Middle Eastern
Cooking by Suzy Benghiat
(Harmony Books, New York,
1985). I first purchased this
book simply because of my
strong interest in Middle
Eastern food. However, when
I studied the recipes, several
seemed to have a Jewish in-
fluence. In carefully reading
the introduction, I discovered
that the author was a Sephar
dic Jew from Cairo, Egypt
who now lives in London.
Middle Eastern Cooking is
by no means a "Jewish"
cookbook, nor is it meant to
be kosher (though the majori-
ty of recipes follow the rules
of kashrut or can be easily
adapted). Actually, the author
has made it a point to cover
a wide variety of dishes from
different groups in the Middle
East. Nevertheless, those