y DRESSING THE HALLMARKS OF WARM WEATHER CLOTHES ARE NEW COLORS AND UNCOMPLICATED FIT BY RONNA HALL A relaxed silhouette with lots of comfort yet strict styling is visible in menswear this spring. Even the man who wants the conservative, business suit will find a softer shoulder and less confined tailoring. The Italian styling of past seasons, softer but still serious, has spilled over into traditional mens suiting. Ken Rogin, owner of MacKenzie's in Applegate says, "The traditional look is becoming fuller and more comfortable and more of our Poly-linen sports coat in plaid of sky blue, grey, coral and lime, $175, by Palm Beach. 78 Jewish News customers are choosing the double-breasted suit," a staple item in the European clothing market. Accompanying most suits are pleated trousers. "Pleats are everywhere," says Harry Kosins of Kosins Clothes in Lathrup Village. Whether it be business, dress, or casual, you'll find pleats completing the look. "The skinny, tapered look is no longer here. Tight is out and a very easy look is here to stay," adds Kosins. Many of MacKenzie's traditional customers were hesitant at first to try pleated pants but, "now most realize they are flattering and comfortable and that's all they want," says Rogin. To further complement the look are wider lapels. "Italian designers like Armani and Valentino are emphasizing an even wider lapel this spring," says Ari Freed of Freed's in Windsor. "It balances the fuller, relaxed look." A slightly wider tie naturally follows and David Rogovin of L'Uomo Vogue in Southfield says, "Ties are a touch wider, 1/4", but the neck remains the same, allowing for a slightly smaller knot." Linen is playing an important role this spring. Linen, and silk and linen combinations are being accepted by men for business. "Men are becoming more courageous than ever in their dress," says Kosin. These fabrics afford a man the opportunity to Cream silk sports coat in single- breasted two-button silhouette, $195, by John Weitz. extend his daytime clothing into evening. At R Grumet on the Boardwalk, Bob Grumet says, "Detail is what my store is about. I choose items for my customers that can easily be worn to business during the day and look great at a casual dinner at night." The sportcoat by Mila Schon, sold exclusively at R Grumet, is a polo look with an Striped all-cotton dress shirt with French cuffs and self-striped collar, by Van Heusen.