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68
Friday, March 13, 1987
THE DETROIT JEWISH NEWS
79
b
.
've recently come across
a fascinating Jewish
cookbook which seeks to
preserve a unique Jewish
culinary culture that is
gradually disappearing in its
place of origin. The Cookbook
of the Jews of Greece by
Nicholas Stavroulakis (Cad-
mus Press) has been carefully
researched and beautifully
illustrated by the author,
who is the director of the
Jewish Museum of Greece.
Stavroulakis interviewed
women all over Greece to find
out their culinary traditions
and recipes. Whenever he ar-
rived at a new community, he
would aks who made the best
traditional Jewish dishes.
Then he compared difference
versions of the dish, trying to
select those that were most
authentic.
For the sake of authentic-
ity, he omitted any recipes
that called for self-rising
flour, gelatine or electrical
appliances.
In his own kitchen, Stav-
roulakis tested the recipes
and attempted to pinpoint
amounts that had been given
to him in generalities. An
editor also helped with
American measurements and
clarity in the directions.
The resulting Cookbook of
the Jews of Greece is an un-
usual collection of appealing
recipes influenced by the four
great empires that once
dominated the area which is
now modern Greece: the
Alexandrine, Roman, Byzan-
tine, and — most influential
of all — the Ottoman.
In interpreting these dis-
hes, Stavroulakis' own varied
background proved to be
helpful. He was born in
England 52 years ago of a
Turkish-Jewish mother and
Cretan father whose own
father had converted from
Islam to the Greek Orthodox
Church. He grew up in Istan-
bul, but later earned degrees
from some American univer-
sities, including the Univer-
sity of Michigan.
An artist as well as a his-
torian and cook, Mr. Stay-
roulskis illustrated the cook-
book with wonderful line
drawings based on authentic
costumes and other materials
from the archives of the
Jewish Museum of Greece.
The Cookbook of the Jews
of Greece includes chapters on
daily fare as well as holiday
specialties. The latter chap-
ters feature many interesting
details on the Greek-Jewish
culinary celebration of the
festivals.
Following are some Purim
recipes from Cookbook of the
Jews of Greece:
The first recipe is from
Salonika. According to the
author of The Cookbook of the
Jews of Greece, another ver-
sion of "Novies" is made from
an uncooked mixture of con-
fectioners' sugar, cornstarch
and water, and may be tinted
with food coloring.
NOVIES
(MARZIPAN FOR PURIM)
3 cups almonds, blanched
and finely ground
5 cups confectioners' sugar
% to 1/2 tsp. almond extract
1 large egg white, stiffly
beaten
Water, to moisten the
dough
Preheat oven to 350 de-
grees. Mix the almonds and
sugar together and add, stir-
ring, small amounts of water
until you have a thick malle-
able dough. Add the almond
extract, or moisten your
hands with it, and turn out
the dough and knead it for
about 5 minutes. Add the be-
aten egg white and knead for
5 minutes more. Break off
small amounts of the dough
and roll under the palms of
your hands until pencil-thin
lengths. From these, form
small figures that will lie flat
on a baking sheet.
In Salonika, it was the cus-
tom to make small baskets,
scissors, cups, slippers, and
even female figurines for the
girls. For boys, there were
men on horseback, pocket
watches, cups, and male
figurines. These were not
colored.
Arrange them on a baking
sheet and bake at 350 de-
Continued on Page 70