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Friday, December 5, 1986
THE DETROIT JEWISH NEWS
ow
als URI 11 ,1i. • •
. ,„,
receipts peculiar to the
Jewish people."
With some of the dishes,
she actually points out the
difference between the
"Jewish" version and the non-
kosher English or French one.
Lady Montefiore's beauti-
ful prose reflects that she is
obviously one of the "ac-
complished and intellectual
women" she describes. Many
of her comments are as true
today as they were in her own
time. For instance, she astute-
ly observes: "The Cuisine of
a woman of refinement, like
her dress or her furniture, is
distinguished, not for its
costliness and profusion, but
for a pervading air of graceful
originality. She is quite sensi-
ble of the regard due to reign-
ing fashion of the day, but her
own tasteful discrimination is
always perceptible. She in-
stinctively avoids every thing
that is hackneyed, vulgar, and
common place, and uniform-
ly succeeds in pleasing by
the judicious novelties she
introduces!'
The recipes in The Jewish
Manual all transcribed in the
then-standard paragraph form,
are both appealing and prac-
tical for the most part. And,
they are so carefully written
that several could probably
be made in a 1980s kitchen
with little change. This is all
the more incredible when one
realizes that cooks in Lady
Montefiore's day simply did
not write down recipes, but
passed on vague ideas by
word of mouth.
Some of her soup, fish, fowl,
meat, sauce and preserve
recipes, in particular, should
be relatively easy for the
modern Jewish cook to follow,
even though British measure-
ments vary somewhat from
American ones. In such
dishes, exact amounts are
usually not critical to produce
a tasty finished product.
Lady Montefiore also pru-
dently shows how to prepare
foods efficiently with little
waste, and even suggests
skimming the fat off some
soups and stews, although
this was not common prac-
tice, to make the food taste
"more delicate." She is also
ahead of her time with veg-
etable preparation when she
comments, "Potatoes are
much better when steamed.
Peas and several other
vegetables are also improved
by this mode of cooking
,,„ ,,,„,„ ,„,, „, „„
611 I fill.
!ffi 1!!!!!!!!2 j.
„„,,,„„,il,r ,
11 1
u, mu ,1
them, although it is seldom
adopted in England."
Lady Montefiore's "sensi-
ble" advice on dress, hair,
teeth, nails and complexion,
and her recipes for homemade
medicinal compounds have
not "aged" as well as her
recipes, but they are fasci-
nating reading nonetheless.
The following are a few
"receipts" reprinted from The
Jewish Manual to give you a
taste of Victorian Jewish
cooking.
MATSO SOUP
Boil down half a shin of
beef, four pounds of gravy
beef, and a, calf's foot may be
added, if approved, in three or
four quarts of water; season
with celery, carrots, turnips,
pepper and salt, and a bunch
of sweet herbs; let the whole
stew gently for eight hours,
then strain and let it stand to
get cold, when the fat must
be removed, then return it to
the saucepan to warm up. Tbn
minutes before serving, throw
in the balls, from which the
soup takes its name, and
which are made in the follow-
ing manner:
Take a half pound of matso
flour, two ounces of chopped
suet, season with a little pep-
per, salt, ginger, and nutmeg,
mix with this, four beaten
eggs, and make it into a
paste, a small onion shred and
browned in a desert spoonful
of oil is sometimes added; the
paste should be made into
rather large balls, and care
should be taken to make
them very light.
•
Suet was used, instead of
the pareve margarine usually
used nowadays, in meat
dishes that required some
sort of fat, and for pastries to
be eaten with meat. Even
though Lady Montefiore
probably never tasted lard,
she expresses a definite
preference for the "Jewish"
substitute to which she was
accustomed.
TO CLARIFY SUET
Melt down with care fine
fresh suet, either beef or veal,
put it into a jar, and set it in
a stew-pan of water to boil,
putting in a sprig of rose-
mary, or a little orange flower
water while melting, this is a
very useful preparation and
will be found, if adopted in
English kitchens, to answer
the purpose of lard and is far
more delicate and wholesome:
it should be well beat till