(milchik) 'food at the same meal; dishes

used for one may never be used for the
other, or even washed together. A
third category of food (in addition to
meat and dairy) is called pareve. This
consists of fish, vegetables, fruit, eggs,
and cereal. Because it is considered
neither flayshik nor milchik, pareve
may be eaten with either.
Many specialties — kosher or tray! —
are now widely popular. What began as
gehakte leber, a proletarian version of
pate de foie gras, is dignified these days
as chopped liver. Praakes and bolishkes
are honored as stuffed cabbage. Kishke
has been anglicized into stuffed derma,
though it is still the same long piece of
filled beef casing the humorist Sam
Levenson called "fire hose."
Cholent has not yet made the
English grade, but it deserves to
graduate. Since lighting a fire is pro-
hibited on the Sabbath, this alloy of
meat and other ingredients such as
onions, beans, potatoes and barley was
put. into the oven on Friday afternoon
and taken out the next day. It served
as the Sabbath lunch.
Pot roast is another favorite, also
known as gedempte flaysh; essig flaysh
is a sweet-and-sour version. Flanken is
a flank steak. Gefilte helzel (stuffed
chicken neck) may feature ingredients
such as breadcrumbs, flour, onions and
fat. Pirogen are hardly distinguishable
from piroshki (their Russian and Polish
forebears) — chopped, cooked meat
mixed with onion, rolled in dough and
baked. Served with soup, not in soup.
In years past, Jewish cooks learned
their art from mothers, grandmothers

"When the dough
was finished, she
said, 6 0i vay! It
doesn't look right;
and began throwing
things in left and
right:'

or aunts and never wrote down recipes
or measured ingredients. Mona Sagman
remembers how it was when she sought
instruction from her aunt Eda. "How
do you make tayglach [a honeyed con-
fection]?' I'd ask her, and she'd say in
Yiddish, 'You take flour.' You'd say to
her 'How much flour?' and she'd look
at you as if you were mad and say, 'As
much as you'll want tayglach.' Well,
you accepted that, and you had some

kind of vision in your mind what size
bowl you would fill with flour, and
then she'd say, 'You put in eggs,' and
you'd say, 'How many eggs?' And again
you'd get the look, and she'd say, 'As
much as you'll have flour.' "
"My mother makes a marvelous
veinek kugel (a rich fruit pudding made
with shtrudel dough," said Anita Field,
a Philadelphia housewife. "One day I
decided to watch her making it and
write down the recipe. She took a
handful of flour, and I said, 'Stop!' and
ran and got a cup and held it under
her hand, so I'd know how much she
put in. I measured everything in the
same way, and I wrote it all down.
When the dough was finished, she said,
'Oi vay! It doesn't look right,' and
began throwing things in left and right
so fast that I couldn't measure a thing.
I still don't know how to make the

kugel."

T

hough Leo Rosten, author of

Joys of Yiddish, maintains

that Yiddish is a language
without puns, his theory does
not account for the joys of tsimmes.
Off the table the word means "fuss," as
in "Don't make such a tsimmes." On
the table it is a succulent dish, even a
meal by itself, made from stewed
vegetables, with or without fruit and
beef.
Any day of the week may be rich in
shmaltz — rendered animal fat, usually
from a chicken. "If you cut down on
shmaltz, it's not Jewish cooking — it's
American cooking," says Betty Solondz,
a Long Island housewife. But others
make such a tsimmes about cholesterol
that they substitute margarine, shorten-
ing or vegetable oil. The word shmaltz,
however, is still useful, having oozed
from Jewish kitchens into the English
language to designate anything overly
sentimental.
Shmaltz even dignifies herring, which
is traditionally a proletarian special.
There are also other ways to dignify
fish; e.g., by serving it as chopped herr-
ing — raw salt herring chopped
together with an apple, onion, bread
and vinegar.
But who could live without fish? In
America the quintessential specialty is
gefilte (stuffed) fish — usually based on
carp, but everyone to his own recipe.
The classic specialty is made from fish
scraped from skin and bones, chopped
together with onions, eggs and bread-
crumbs, then boiled or baked and serv-
ed cold. In America it is usually made
into round or oval shapes, and in any
country at all the thing to eat with

A "Long. Guyland"
Jewish Wedding

Detroit's kosher caterers continue to delight us, but Jewish
travelers also sing the praises of the fabled Long Island (pro-
nounced Long Guyland by the natives) kosher caterers whose
imaginative performances at Jewish weddings sometimes leave
guests at the groaning board gasping. lb wit (with thanks to Vic-
tor Mayer & Sons Caterers, Inc. of Hewlett) a modest proposal
for a L.I. Jewish wedding reception menu (tea and tidbits would
precede the ceremony).

RECEPTION

An Excellent Assortment of Hot Hors D'Oeuvres
Passed Butler Style
Stuffed Mushrooms
Miniature Potato Pancakes & Apple Sauce
Franks in Pastry Dough
Miniature Chinese Eggrolls
Porato Bouchets
Sweetbreads in Patty Shells
Pressed Duck
Terriyaki Beef with Scallions
Asparagus Cigarettes

Nova Station
Nova Scotia Salmon Carved to Order
* Capers * Lemon Wedges * Pumpernickel * Cru-lites

Sushi Bar

Hibachi Station

Shishkabobs * Spare Ribs * BBQ Chicken * Lamb Chops

Tempura Station
Broccoli * Cauliflower * Eggplaiit * Zucchini
* Mushrooms * Carrots * Stringbeans
* Hoisin Sauce * Duck Sauce * Mustard Sauce
Carving Station
Baked Sugar Cured Corned Beef * Sliced Steak * Turkey

Pasta Station
Spaghetti Primavera * Linguini with Marinara Sauce
* Pasta with Pesto Sauce

DINNER

Hot Poached Salmon with Sorrel Sauce
Sauteed Cucumbers

Fresh Garden Vegetable Soup

Bibb Lettuce Salad with Endive,
Radicchio, Arugula, Watercress,
Red Onions, Mushrooms, Artichoke,
Hearts, Hearts of Palm, Cherry Tomatoes,
Dijon Mustard Dressing

Rack of Veal
&
Duck with Orange Sauce
Julienne of Vegetables
Tied with Leek Ribbon
Roasted Red Potatoes

Chocolate Basket filled
with Coconut, Raspberry &
Pink Grapefruit Sorbet

Coffee / Mocha Sanka Tea Nuts & Mints

WEDDING CAKE
VIENNESE TABLE

Fresh Fruit Platters Beautifully Decorated * Assorted French
Pastries * Eclairs * Creme Puffs * Napoleons * Fruit Tarts
* Strudel * Chocolate Mousse * Chocolate Dipped Fruit
* Halavah * Dried Fruit * Irish Coffee

r-.614 - vj

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