shapes with classic Chanel
touches like special gold but-
tons and luxuriously quilted lin-
ings. Some of the Chanel
classics were inspired by
English country tweeds. He
drew attention to the waist with
such features as peplums on
jackets and his military cadet
suits, which teamed tight-fitting
gold-buttoned jackets or flared
riding coats with slim trousers.
Lagerfeld favored long
"cossack" overcoats, military
looking in black with gold but-
tons, as well as "trapeze"
coats, a wide tent shape in the
new, short 40-inch length.
Yves Saint Laurent focused
on his couture collection, gent-
ly shaping his day clothes in
luxurious fabrics. In a season
of outstanding coats in wool
and leather, particular notice
was taken of Saint Laurent's in-
terpretation of the classic
body-fitting top,
redingote
nipped in waist, full and flaring
skirt. Saint Laurent does it in
double-breasted, camel-colored
cashmere wool. Another out-
standing coat from Saint
Laurent is a flaring bright blue
wool coat, in seven-eighth
length. In leather, there's a
three-quarter length grey coat
with rounded shoulders.
Saint Laurent's elegantly
classic approach prevailed in
day clothes and sportswear,
from a tweed jacket and slim
skirt to a bulky handknit
sweater and grey flannel pants.
Skirts were narrow; the suede
and leather skirts were often
knee length. To accompany
them, silk blouses and round-
neck cashmere pullovers.
Black was the major color,
alleviated by pink as the main
accent color. Snakeskin, a
favorite for accessories, turned
Several designers created
new and interesting coats,
in wool and luxury fabrics
like cashmere. Among
them was Gianni Versace,
in all-red ensembles.
August 1986
43