filling a gap between super
trendy clothes and too
classical. You can get classical
clothes that are boring," says
David. "We have classical
clothes that are not garish, but
the cuts definitely give the
woman that edge."
New designers, of clothes
and accessories, are making
their marks on the fashion
scene. Their names may be
unfamiliar now, but are likely to
be "household words" in the
future. Marc Jacobs, Andre
Walker, Isabel Toledo, Tony Ver-
milion, Bradford C. Moody,
Mario Salvucchi and Virginia
Astrada are considered among
the youthful best and
brightest.
Working with outlandish
shapes cut from classic
fabrics, Andre Walker is known
for his wild creations: knee-
length pants worn with knee-
length stockings; side-draped
coats; longer-in-front pastel
coats; and flannel wrap-
dresses with oddly shaped
sleeves. Walker mixes and ex-
aggerates proportions to
establish a mood new to
Seventh Avenue.
Isabel Toledo also includes
side-draping and long-in-front
shapes in her fall collection, as
well as interesting silhouettes
based on circles. "I start with
a shape and work with it," she
says, relaxing in her Chelsea
studio, "I enjoy circles, so I
see how far I can take it."
The circular motion of the
clothes is best noted in her
white denim duffle coat with
black, fake fur trim. Toledo is
known for her color patterns; it
is not unusual to see a sharp
red and purple combination in
one piece. "When I'm working,
it has to come naturally," she
says. "I experiment, but the
things I come up with are not
contrived."
Last fall, Marc Jacobs made
a big splash with graphic-
patterned sweaters in oversized

Fashion Plate

Jules R. Schubot-1986

JULES R. SCHUBOT

jewellers— gemologists

3001 West Big Beaver Road • Suite 112 • Troy, Michigan 48084 • (313) 649-1122

Registered Jeweler < J> American Gem Society

Continued on Page 142

August 1986 37