100%

Scanned image of the page. Keyboard directions: use + to zoom in, - to zoom out, arrow keys to pan inside the viewer.

Page Options

Share

Something wrong?

Something wrong with this page? Report problem.

Rights / Permissions

The University of Michigan Library provides access to these materials for educational and research purposes. These materials may be under copyright. If you decide to use any of these materials, you are responsible for making your own legal assessment and securing any necessary permission. If you have questions about the collection, please contact the Bentley Historical Library at bentley.ref@umich.edu

September 06, 1986 - Image 36

Resource type:
Text
Publication:
The Detroit Jewish News, 1986-09-06

Disclaimer: Computer generated plain text may have errors. Read more about this.

New York

key factors in shaping the
future of design.
"The archetypes of New
York represent a cohesive style
that is characterized by its sen-
suality, elegance and, most im-
portant, its will to survive. The
collage that is New York has a
peculiar sense of beauty and
sexuality which defies
categorization but it is instantly
recognizable," Chua says.
"Paris may well be the capital
of the fashion world, but New
York City is the center of all
style."
For the past 20 years, one of
the most prominent, pro-
gressive designers has been
Betsey Johnson, who con-
tinues to set her own stan-
dards for style. From the
1960's through the 1970's,
Johnson refused to succumb
to critics who labeled her
clothes outrageous. Instead,
she continued to base her
tight, sexy, bold-colored clothes
on the mood of the era and
the music. "I never reacted to
what other designers were do-
ing," says Johnson of her
work.
Now, in the 1980's,
Johnson's current fall line still
caters to tastes ranging from
the punk rocker to the par-
ty/school girl. Working in rain-
bow neons, black, royal, yellow
and dusty rose, Johnson's col-
lection is a potpourri of sleek,
second-skin coatdresses;
strapless, tie-front nighttime
dresses; and a cropped, mock
turtleneck sweater over a tunic
and tight pants. Along with her
thigh-bearing miniskirts and
multitude of zippers, Johnson
introduces a black leather visor
hat, and a peasant girl look of
patterned sweaters over long,
full skirts layered underneath
with lace petticoats.
It is evident that during the
past two decades the 42-year
old designer has continued to
stretch her imagination. "Years
ago, I was up against a pretty
straight market," she recalls.

36

Jewish News

"My stuff doesn't look so crazy
now. We're too smart to live
with rules again. The way I
work, every collection is a new
rhyme in the Mother Goose
book."
Creating her own chapter in
the fall fashion book is top
designer Norma Kamali.
Although Kamali's clothes may
be familiar in shape and tex-
ture, fake fur adds an unusual
twist. Several patterns of fakes,
including leopard, tiger and
cow, are introduced in this
season's coats, jackets, skirts,
pants, belts and gloves.
Various shapes, circular and
triangular, are used in Kamali's
collection of hats, which are

Betsey Johnson's
"peasant girl" look has
patterned sweaters over
long skirts over lace
petticoats.

available in jersey, velvet and
fake fur.
The established designing
team of Norbury and Osuna in-
troduces a new proportion to
their fall line — the trapeze
shape. "Our clothes don't fit
into a trend, they are purely
their own," says David Norbury,
a 30-year old South African
transplant who works with
34-year old Miguel Osuna.
"Our clothes can be worn to-
day, and they can be worn
three years from now."
Working in grey, black, white
and the jewel tones, Norbury
and Osuna hope their fall line
will please women who want
that extra edge. "I think we are

Back to Top

© 2024 Regents of the University of Michigan