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144
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chain across the front and a
tight corset. Moody says he
enjoys working with Velcro,
magnets and zip-lock plastic
bags.
"The dress that's made out
of zip-lock bags draws from art
history. We're talking about a
found object — the zip-lock
bag — that you can fill with
anything you want," says
Moody, who seeks to recapture
the "lost art of American
couture."
Mario Salvucchi and Virginia
Astrada are jewelry designers
who both work with the hope
that their designs will generate
a new way of thinking.
Salvucchi, who works in
silver, says he has taken
jewelry in a new dirction by in-
venting new and unusual
closures. This is seen in earr-
ings that close in front with
thin pins, and a five-ring
bangle bracelet with a thick
oblong attachment.
Astrada studied sculpture at
Parsons, and her designs
reflect her training. Astrada's
jewelry resembles the various
buildings and skyscrapers of
New York which she views
from her studio in Greenwich
Village. Most of her fall collec-
tion is done in muted bronze
and muted gun metal.
As different as the designers
are, they share a common
trait. In all these collections,
they have taken chances.
Rather than merely creating
marketable and/or pretty
clothes, the designers have
focused on what they want
their fashions "to say." They
are not seeking to set trends
that fade away after the
season. Instead, they hope to
instill a new sense of in-
dividuality, spirit and attitude in
their work that takes the con-
ventional one step further. For
the New York fall season of
1986, this has clearly been
accomplished.