Wool herringbone
suit from Gant, with
center vent jacket
and pleated trousers.

accessories," says Orman.
In men's slacks for fall, pleats
are it. The shape is more relaxed
with a roomier thigh and knee
area. "You can choose from
inverted, double or triple-pleated
trousers in business suits or in
bulkier tweed slacks," says
Kosins. Pleated windowpane
gabardines, donegals, and black
and grey herringbone slacks will
compromise much of the
inventory at David R's in
Southfield.
"Cuffs are very popular this
season and look great with the
patterned fabrics," says Kosins.
"They were more than 11/4"
wide."
Summer's bright colors have
spilled over into fall dressing.
According to GQ magazine, the
blazer is really blazing, especially
when paired with deep rich
complementary colors of purples
or golds.
"Teal is a hot color for fall as
well as black," says Harold
"Hersh" Rothenberg, owner of
Hersh's on the Boardwalk
"Jewel tones of purples, and
amber reds, make for a prettier
floor and give men a reason for
pulling together their wardrobe,"
adds Elaine Ball, buyer for Men's
Better Sportswear at Crowleys.
In the bi-colored, geometric
sweaters at Hudson's, black is
teamed with dynamic splashes of
kelly green, red, or cobalt blue.
Candace Barker, Manager of
Communications at Hudson's,
says that the use of black and the
brights has penetrated all of
sportswear this season.
At The Polo Store,
"Herringbone shetland-wool
sport coats in bright reds,
purples, and navy pair easily with
rich, plaid cotton shirts,"
according to Bert Poole, store
manager.
David Rayner, owner of David
R., tries to do things a little
differently. In his updated classic
store, you'll find sweaters in
combinations of khaki and plum,
and aubergine and khaki as well
as grey and hot pink.

SWEATERS

Sweaters are still loose-fitting.
The couture collections will show
the latest tight-fitting contours,
but here in Michigan "no tight
waist-lines in sweaters, but a
modified straighter line down the
side rather than the extreme
fullness," says Hersch.
At Crowley's, "the Nordic or
snowflake look of the fancy
sweater, using lots of white
grounds and accented with
burgundy and navy, is something
new that most men don't have in
their drawers," adds Ball.
L'Uomo Vogue is showing lots
of sweaters with leather trim and
many others in vibrant colors like
cobalt blue and plum.
Turtlenecks and mock
turtlenecks, dominant this fall, in
wool knits and silks can be used
very effectively with a sport coat,
under one of Polo's flannel shirts,
or as part of a layered look.

SHIRTS

The classic look of wider stripes
will be dominant this fall
according to Ernest Drucker of
the Executive Custom
Shirtmakers in Birmingham.
Bolder, more colorful stripes are
also evident in Ralph Lauren's
button-down shirts at The
Claymore Shop. Tone-on-tone
and shadow-striped dress shirts
are elegant.
"The very wide-spread English
collar is the newest trend in
collars," says Drucker. However,
at L'Uomo Vogue collars are a bit
longer with less spread.
On a first order of shirts,
Drucker always recommends a
few be made with french cuffs.
"Wearing french cuffs raises a
man's dressing code a knotch,"
adds Drucker.
As for style, the pin collar
affords a very dressy look. "Even
those men who would never have
considered it in the past are
accepting the pin," says Drucker.
Shirts are fuller, easier, and
more relaxed fitting for fall.

Continued On Page 136

August 1986

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