WOOLF ROOFING

COMMERICAL & RESIDENTIAL

646-2452

respectfully as if they were
going to a synagogue."
Who else goes to Golden-
berg's? The usual crowd: Jerry
Lewis, Charles Aznavour,
Barbra Streisand, Michelle
Morgan. And before her pass-
ing, Simone Signoret with her
husband, Yves Montand.
Even with reservations, you
may have to fight your way
through the deli customers to
get to the two-level dining
area, which serves 150 deliri-
ous fressers. The pockmarked
ceiling remains as a reminder
of that dreadful day in 1982.
The tables are placed so
tightly together that it's
somewhat easier to squeeze
into them before dinner than
after.
The huge French menu
lends an air of continental
panache to standard Jewish
(but not kosher) fare; latkes de
pomme de terre; bouillon au
choix ou mixte avec lockshen,
kreplach, kneidlach; tcholen
au bouef et kichke (grand spe-
cialite juive d'Europe Central).
And who can deny the elegant
transformation of gefilte fish
into carpe farcie, served
chaude or froide, or humble
gehockte leyber putting on airs
as foie hache?
The decibel level is high, the
service prompt, the servings
generous. The proximity of the
tables encourages neighborly
conversation. At the next
table in this heimish corner of
the City of Lights, you are as
likely to meet someone from
Australia as from Michigan.
Goldenberg is especially
proud of his pastrami, and
rightfully so. Pastrami, by its
very nature, goes straight for
the cardiovascular system, but
Goldenberg's is considerably
less greasy than many Ameri-
can varieties. In fact, there's a
great pastrami story that
Buddy Hackett tells.
The comedian phoned Yves
Monstand from New York to
tell him that he was coming to
Paris, and asked it he could
bring Montand anything from
the States.
"Yes. Some of that marvel-
ous New. York pastrami."
"You've got it," said Hac-
kett.
But in the rush of travel
preparations, Hackett forgot
to buy it. He arrived in Paris
and suddenly remembered
Montand's request. He left his
hotel, hailed a cab — and got a
Yiddish-speaking driver.
Hackett explained his pre-
dicament. The cabbie nodded
sympathetically and drove the
comedian to a Jewish deli —
most probably Goldenberg's —
where he bought a kilo of pas-
trami. He took it back to his
hotel and let the bag get good
and greasy, so that it looked
like it had traveled a long dis-
tance. The next day he pre-
sented his gift to a grateful
Montand, who carefully un-
wrapped the meat, popped a
slice in his mouth, rolled his
eyes and said, "Let's face it —
you just can't get pastrami
like this in Paris.!"

•

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