,52 THE DETROIT JEWISH NEWS Friday, May 30, 1986 Dinner 4 p.m.-1 a.m. Lunch 11 a.m. CLOSE-UP Banquet Facilities NOW APPEARING TUES. THRU SAT. NORTHERN LIGHTS Reservations, 362-1262 Concourse, Top of Troy • 755 W. Dig Beaver IRVING'S IN LA MIRAGE MALL 452-3840 BREAKFAST SPECIAL MAY 30 THRU JUNE 5 29555 NORTHWESTERN HWY. BET. 12 & 13 MILE Good til 11 a.m. 7 Days A Week! KITCHEN SINK (Farmer's Omelette Mishmash) CORNED BEEF, BACON, SAUSAGE, GREEN PEPPER, ONIONS, MUSHROOMS, TOMATOES AND CHEESE. COOKED TOGETHER OMELETTE STYLE. BAGEL, ROLL OR TOAST $1 78 BREAKFAST SPECIAL EVERY WEEK! Good till 11 am. 7 Days A Week! LOX, EGGS, & ONIONS BAGEL, ROLL OR TOAST $ 98 EVERY TUESDAY THRU FRIDAY ANYHOUR! - DINNER FOR TWO ROAST CHICKEN $R50 With Cole Slaw & Cottage Fries ‘'v zoi, DINNER SPECIAL MAY 30 THRU JUNE 5 LIVER & ONIONS INCLUDES: SOUP OR SALAD, POT. OR VEG., BREAD BASKET, HOMEMADE RICE PUDDING OR JELLO 4 4 8 OUR DAILY CARRY-OUT PRICES ARE GUARANTEED LOWEST! r 5080 SOUTHFIELD AT 10 MILE 569-0882 Nova-Nouvelle Continued from Page 45 tart Principal Garner Bowlby in his never-ending search for Mumford class cutters. But the place of the Sixties to see and be seen was Darby's on Seven Mile near Wyoming, where people were known to wait in the long weekend lines with opera glasses, the better to see those who wished to be seen. It was, perhaps, Detroit's pro- totype non-deli deli — a restau- rant first and a delicatessen sec- ond. As Detroit's Jews traded city homes for suburban lots, delis followed. And those that stayed had to adapt to a different din- tele. "We've gone through a real transition over the years," ex- plained Goodman of Lou's. "Our clientele is mostly black and non-Jewish, but we've managed to survive real well. We sell two tons of corned beef a week from our West McNichols store alone, but we've cut out dilled to- matoes and pickles. We don't have chicken noodle soup either. Our non-Jewish customers ex- pect chicken soup to have chunks of chicken in it like Campbell's. It was easier to cut it out than to keep explaining that we weren't making it wrong." Of the new delis that opened in the suburbs, Stage Delicates- sen and Restaurant on Nine Mile in Oak Park is the ac- knowledged zayde. "To me, that's a real old-time deli," observed fast-food deli de- signer Kerry Gluckman, 29, who is too young to remember the herring barrels of Hastings Street. "It's a place to go and hang out with a bunch of old Jewish men, eat pastrami and shmooz a little. It's different in West Bloomfield. It's more show, more pizzazz." Twenty years ago, Gluckman's father, Hank, designed the Stage. Ironically, Kerry de- signed the more contemporary Stage and Company in West Bloomfield. "I'm a designer, and I like to design contemporary things," he explained. "Times change and you have to go with them." Design has become as impor- IS PROUD ield TO INTRODUCE Southf CHEF ERNIE DI MICHELE FEATURING NORTHERN & SOUTHERN ITALIAN CUISINE • • • • • • BAKED PASTAS • LASAGNA • PRIMAVERA PASTA • SEAFOODS CANNELLONI • PASTA WITH SEAFOOD • RISOTTO • STEAK SICILIANO CAJUN-STYLE DISHES • SALTIMBOCCA • PEPPER STEAK • VEAL ERNIE VEAL PICCANTE • VEAL MARSALA • VEAL PARMESAN • VEAL PRIMAVERA CHICKEN BREAST PICCANTE • CHICKEN BREAST FLORENTINE • FILET ETC. • ETC. • ETC. • ETC. • ETC. • ETC. • ETC. • ETC. OUR FAMOUS SUNDAY BRUNCH 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. IS HARD TO BEAT! • HOT & COLD Adults • ALL-YOU-CAN-EAT I 95 cji 95 Children 10 & Under 11.1. An opening-day special at the new Lou's. tant as diet in today's delicates- sens. It may be the contempor- ary gray, plum and putty of the new Stage and Company, which Gluckman describes as "a con- temporary Darby's," or the clean, red-accented black-and- white of the new Lou's fast-food prototype. There are glossy menus and full-color blow-up pictures of the food. Decor is not the only change in today's delis. The food itself is different. Those who complain that the corned beef is tougher than it used to be or that the bread just isn't as good may not have fail- ing memories, according to Sam Piaseczny. "Now that all the meat is machine-sliced," he explained, "it can't be cooked quite as long or it would crumble in the slicer. This may make it a little chewier. "As for the bread, it used to come directly from the bakery in a big box, but the health de- partment stepped in and said it had to be wrapped. Once you wrap it, you change the flavor. What the better delis do now is buy unsliced bread, take it out of the bag, rub it with butter . and put it back in the oven and then slice it." Piaseczny added that everyone is buying more ready-made products from pickles to pas- trami and that they've thrown out the brine with the barrel. "People just don't eat the same style," explained Jerry Guttman, owner of Irving's Deli on Northwestern. His family owned the popular Irving's Orig- inal Restaurant and Deli in Southfield for 11 years and, be- fore that, spent 21 years in their Hamtramck store. Guttman — as most of today's deli owners — feels customers today want a lighter and more varied menu. Michael Zuckman, co-owner with his cousin David Mintz at the Encore Deli in West Bloomfield, agrees. "Studies show that the higher the income the more health con- scious people become," he noted. "They want healthier food. They're getting away from the nitrated meats like corned beef and pastrami. We have to reach out more with things like sea- food, turkey and salads. We have to change with the market. Don't forget, 20 years ago, no one talked about avocados!" As a result, Zuckman ob- served, even the smell of the delicatessen has changed. "That real great deli smell of old just isn't there," admitted Zuckman who, although only 38, began his deli career as hun- dreds before him — working in the Broadway Market. "Everyone wants lean today," agreed Zuckman's mentor Piaseczny. "It used to be that fat was the most flavorful part and everyone wanted some. Grandma had a saying: 'A little fat would keep you from squeak- ing.' No one would listen to Grandma today." Comparing today's high-tech, "fast-food" delicatessens with their predecessors "is like com- paring a Reform temple on Fri- day night to an Orthodox shul on Saturday morning," accord- ing to Midge Lusardi of Hun- tington Woods, whose great- grandfather ran a kosher grocery-delicatessen on New York's Lower East Side. "The atmospheres are totally differ- ent." While Lusardi agrees that to- day's delicatessens may be• cleaner and more hygenic, "the dirt is what gave it all the flavor." "I just can't get used to eating kishka when I'm sitting next to a woman with $5,000 Gucci shoes," she said. But whether one prefers old dills or nouvelle cuisine, there's obviously more to today's delis than sauerkraut and salami. "Nowadays, it's not just mak- ing a sandwich and wrapping it with a pickle," Zuckman ob- served. "It's a whole new world out there." ❑ Symphony Lists Concert Date The Southfield Symphony Society presents the Southfield Symphony, conducted by Ervin Monroe, in concert on June 7 at 8:30 p.m. in The First Jubilee atOrchestra Hall. Tickets are available at the door.