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THE DETROIT JEWISH NEWS
Friday, May 30, 1986
Dinner 4 p.m.-1 a.m.
Lunch 11 a.m.
CLOSE-UP
Banquet Facilities
NOW APPEARING
TUES. THRU SAT.
NORTHERN
LIGHTS
Reservations, 362-1262
Concourse, Top of Troy • 755 W. Dig Beaver
IRVING'S
IN LA MIRAGE MALL
452-3840
BREAKFAST SPECIAL MAY 30 THRU JUNE 5
29555 NORTHWESTERN HWY. BET. 12 & 13 MILE
Good til 11 a.m. 7 Days A Week!
KITCHEN SINK
(Farmer's Omelette Mishmash)
CORNED BEEF, BACON, SAUSAGE,
GREEN PEPPER, ONIONS, MUSHROOMS,
TOMATOES AND CHEESE.
COOKED TOGETHER OMELETTE STYLE.
BAGEL, ROLL OR TOAST
$1 78
BREAKFAST SPECIAL EVERY WEEK!
Good till 11 am. 7 Days A Week!
LOX, EGGS, & ONIONS
BAGEL, ROLL OR TOAST
$ 98
EVERY TUESDAY THRU FRIDAY
ANYHOUR!
-
DINNER FOR TWO
ROAST CHICKEN $R50
With Cole Slaw & Cottage Fries
‘'v zoi,
DINNER SPECIAL MAY 30 THRU JUNE 5
LIVER & ONIONS
INCLUDES: SOUP OR SALAD, POT.
OR VEG., BREAD BASKET,
HOMEMADE RICE PUDDING OR JELLO
4 4 8
OUR DAILY CARRY-OUT PRICES ARE GUARANTEED LOWEST!
r
5080 SOUTHFIELD AT 10 MILE
569-0882
Nova-Nouvelle
Continued from Page 45
tart Principal Garner Bowlby in
his never-ending search for
Mumford class cutters.
But the place of the Sixties to
see and be seen was Darby's on
Seven Mile near Wyoming,
where people were known to
wait in the long weekend lines
with opera glasses, the better to
see those who wished to be seen.
It was, perhaps, Detroit's pro-
totype non-deli deli — a restau-
rant first and a delicatessen sec-
ond.
As Detroit's Jews traded city
homes for suburban lots, delis
followed. And those that stayed
had to adapt to a different din-
tele.
"We've gone through a real
transition over the years," ex-
plained Goodman of Lou's. "Our
clientele is mostly black and
non-Jewish, but we've managed
to survive real well. We sell two
tons of corned beef a week from
our West McNichols store alone,
but we've cut out dilled to-
matoes and pickles. We don't
have chicken noodle soup either.
Our non-Jewish customers ex-
pect chicken soup to have
chunks of chicken in it like
Campbell's. It was easier to cut
it out than to keep explaining
that we weren't making it
wrong."
Of the new delis that opened
in the suburbs, Stage Delicates-
sen and Restaurant on Nine
Mile in Oak Park is the ac-
knowledged zayde.
"To me, that's a real old-time
deli," observed fast-food deli de-
signer Kerry Gluckman, 29, who
is too young to remember the
herring barrels of Hastings
Street. "It's a place to go and
hang out with a bunch of old
Jewish men, eat pastrami and
shmooz a little. It's different in
West Bloomfield. It's more show,
more pizzazz."
Twenty years ago, Gluckman's
father, Hank, designed the
Stage. Ironically, Kerry de-
signed the more contemporary
Stage and Company in West
Bloomfield.
"I'm a designer, and I like to
design contemporary things," he
explained. "Times change and
you have to go with them."
Design has become as impor-
IS PROUD
ield
TO INTRODUCE
Southf
CHEF ERNIE
DI MICHELE
FEATURING NORTHERN & SOUTHERN ITALIAN CUISINE
•
•
•
•
•
•
BAKED PASTAS • LASAGNA • PRIMAVERA PASTA • SEAFOODS
CANNELLONI • PASTA WITH SEAFOOD • RISOTTO • STEAK SICILIANO
CAJUN-STYLE DISHES • SALTIMBOCCA • PEPPER STEAK • VEAL ERNIE
VEAL PICCANTE • VEAL MARSALA • VEAL PARMESAN • VEAL PRIMAVERA
CHICKEN BREAST PICCANTE • CHICKEN BREAST FLORENTINE • FILET
ETC. • ETC. • ETC. • ETC. • ETC. • ETC. • ETC. • ETC.
OUR FAMOUS SUNDAY BRUNCH 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. IS HARD TO BEAT!
• HOT & COLD
Adults • ALL-YOU-CAN-EAT
I 95
cji 95 Children
10 & Under
11.1.
An opening-day special at the new Lou's.
tant as diet in today's delicates-
sens. It may be the contempor-
ary gray, plum and putty of the
new Stage and Company, which
Gluckman describes as "a con-
temporary Darby's," or the
clean, red-accented black-and-
white of the new Lou's fast-food
prototype. There are glossy
menus and full-color blow-up
pictures of the food.
Decor is not the only change
in today's delis. The food itself is
different.
Those who complain that the
corned beef is tougher than it
used to be or that the bread just
isn't as good may not have fail-
ing memories, according to Sam
Piaseczny.
"Now that all the meat is
machine-sliced," he explained,
"it can't be cooked quite as long
or it would crumble in the
slicer. This may make it a little
chewier.
"As for the bread, it used to
come directly from the bakery in
a big box, but the health de-
partment stepped in and said it
had to be wrapped. Once you
wrap it, you change the flavor.
What the better delis do now is
buy unsliced bread, take it out
of the bag, rub it with butter
. and put it back in the oven and
then slice it."
Piaseczny added that everyone
is buying more ready-made
products from pickles to pas-
trami and that they've thrown
out the brine with the barrel.
"People just don't eat the
same style," explained Jerry
Guttman, owner of Irving's Deli
on Northwestern. His family
owned the popular Irving's Orig-
inal Restaurant and Deli in
Southfield for 11 years and, be-
fore that, spent 21 years in their
Hamtramck store.
Guttman — as most of today's
deli owners — feels customers
today want a lighter and more
varied menu. Michael Zuckman,
co-owner with his cousin David
Mintz at the Encore Deli in
West Bloomfield, agrees.
"Studies show that the higher
the income the more health con-
scious people become," he noted.
"They want healthier food.
They're getting away from the
nitrated meats like corned beef
and pastrami. We have to reach
out more with things like sea-
food, turkey and salads. We
have to change with the market.
Don't forget, 20 years ago, no
one talked about avocados!"
As a result, Zuckman ob-
served, even the smell of the
delicatessen has changed.
"That real great deli smell of
old just isn't there," admitted
Zuckman who, although only 38,
began his deli career as hun-
dreds before him — working in
the Broadway Market.
"Everyone wants lean today,"
agreed Zuckman's mentor
Piaseczny. "It used to be that fat
was the most flavorful part and
everyone wanted some.
Grandma had a saying: 'A little
fat would keep you from squeak-
ing.' No one would listen to
Grandma today."
Comparing today's high-tech,
"fast-food" delicatessens with
their predecessors "is like com-
paring a Reform temple on Fri-
day night to an Orthodox shul
on Saturday morning," accord-
ing to Midge Lusardi of Hun-
tington Woods, whose great-
grandfather ran a kosher
grocery-delicatessen on New
York's Lower East Side. "The
atmospheres are totally differ-
ent."
While Lusardi agrees that to-
day's delicatessens may be•
cleaner and more hygenic, "the
dirt is what gave it all the
flavor."
"I just can't get used to eating
kishka when I'm sitting next to
a woman with $5,000 Gucci
shoes," she said.
But whether one prefers old
dills or nouvelle cuisine, there's
obviously more to today's delis
than sauerkraut and salami.
"Nowadays, it's not just mak-
ing a sandwich and wrapping it
with a pickle," Zuckman ob-
served. "It's a whole new world
out there." ❑
Symphony Lists
Concert Date
The Southfield Symphony
Society presents the Southfield
Symphony, conducted by Ervin
Monroe, in concert on June 7 at
8:30 p.m. in The First Jubilee
atOrchestra Hall. Tickets are
available at the door.