44 Friday, May 30, 1986 THE DETROIT JEWISH NEWS . THE JEWISH NEWS NOVA TO NOUVELLE • aalt ■ .. .;:k.,... .. ....... 2, * ; %AMY 0..11 444465414i1r," > f.............. ara4(044.444ft 4 , 4:1111Mli* 4dbaktix* ...- 4 , 't .....,,,,,.......,..........*. , 4* i 4..44.4.......... . . , 4 . . :. * * ‘' 44.11it,..WW14 c S S. .22444..411t* . 4 4 .. • 4. '54'2****" 5 5 . .., ....„ 44'.."1". ,......*,..........,„.... „ ".. r"* ,n*"t.'*""'"'"..74a4O S 3 * i tte. 4 ,64. 44o—eowseaamatowolow t i A. mot. S.1.4* '"*:%**ilkW4*.'"a'a^^..... 2 4 4, 3. , •04,4000t, 49, 3V0•40.10 a • at *2.4149I 1...amo v,4 444u 44aa.14.4140.40,44. 44/ 4 S •.. • S. 4 i *4.1154.* .S*.C..*"..:4:`• 4 A * .".. . .4,4 *44.4*4444 44.4,.....•44, i * * ..4 S A 4 ; 4448X0 w....... ....., 41 % .:, AC, 70.4*.nr . 4 '4 * ,>1 Eacvsto. w .0 I tit,: 01,IRM cc.....ne.von ..144a.4.4 mm .. . .. ... „mvotostb. f.44:no z s. 7.....„.44* * 4 F. ..mummoviiiii i too.too nowt • .::,.. . -,,,,,,,, t,,....x.•..:.,: s... ,..,....•m g,...,: 4,-,.......,.. .,,, ,,,...,..w,......,.,, , k `4 2.44444 That good old corner delicatessen is putting on a new look. . ' ''''''''' .. ' * * * ■ .S . Z■M°'S ' . ' : . '... . ntittl".'t‘t BY JUDY GOLDWASSER Special to The Jewish News Picking up an order at the new Lou's fast-food deli in Pontiac. T o those who consider the shmooz at least as impor- tant as the shmaltz, the terms "fast food" and "del- . icatessen" may appear mutually exclusive. But a Detroit delicatessen owner, working with a Southfield food service designer, has recently opened a prototype fast-food deli where patrons can have it their way — pastrami on rye, beef barley soup, carry-out knish. Although other delicatessens have tried limiting their menus, and catering to carry-out customers, Lou's Deli in Pontiac's Tel-Huron Mall is the first created specifically as a fast-food operation. "Most delicatessens today are trying to imitate Darby's, but that end of the spectrum is well satu- rated," said Marty Goodman, who also owns two Lou's in Detroit. "We're looking at McDonald's as the competition." Designed as a prototype by Gluckman Designs of Southfield, the quick-serve Lou's comes complete with computerized cash registers, sprawling counter, seating for 68 and waitresses for none. "People in the delicatessen busi- ness have talked about doing some- thing like this for years," said Goodman. "I think the time has come. People are getting awfully tired of hamburgers." Fast-food delicatessens in De- troit are the latest in an evolution- ary process which began in 1896 with the opening of Lefkofsky and Sons on Gratiot and Hastings, the area's first delicatessen. "What we think of as a delica- tessen today is nothing like the old- fashioned delicatessen," said Sam Piaseczny, great grandson of Lef- kofsky founder Joseph Lefkofsky. "Today's delis are restaurant-delis, with waitresses, cooks, complete meals and real dishes instead of paper plates. Back in the old days, you'd just give your order to the countermen and they'd slice a little meat to go with a roll or bread." One of those countermen was Ben Tate of Troy, who took his first job in 1925 at age 16, working 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. for Sam Moscowitz at Sam's Delicatessen on Philadelphia and 12th Street. At the time, corned beef was 90 cents a pound, bologna and hot dogs 35 cents. "Corned beef sandwiches were only a dime," Tate recalled, "but the bread was much thicker than the meat. I remember my friends would ask for me when I moved on to Gunsbergs on 12th and Gladstone. They'd tell them I was in the back room practicing splitting newspapers so I could cut the meat thin enough." Duva Tate, Ben's wife of 46 years, remembers her own fascina- tion with the way corned beef was sliced. "I used to give piano lessons above London's Delicatessen (on De- xter) to Mr. London's two children, Janette and Leon," she recalled. "Then I'd come down and just stand and watch the men slicing. Oh what fleet of hand! It's just like we go to Japanese restaurants today to watch the waiters chop and slice. It was a real show." Mention delicatessen in Detroit and it's a good bet that anyone over 40 will respond with memories of Lefkofsky's, a Broadway Market (Grand River and Broadway) fixture from 1911 to 1966. "Up until about 15 years ago, every deli man in Detroit had trained at the Broadway Market," noted Piaseczny, whose grand- parents, Lillian and Harry, ran the market for years. "The whole idea behind the Broadway Market was revolution- ary," he recalled. "It was really the beginning of supermarkets as we know them today. There were 42 stalls under one roof where people would buy ready-made and bulk food to take home. It was the place to be