Actuated Apparel Development. Initially influenced by a deter- mined and innovative mother, May Dajani followed her into the fashion industry, first by earning a bachelor of arts degree from St. Martins School of Art in London. She con- tinued her education working for designer Jean Muir in Lon- don, then Per Spook in Paris. "I believe in freedom in dressing," says the 24-year old designer. "I want my clothes to trigger the fantasy, and reveal the imagination, individuality and romance of each woman." The first DAAD collection, which previewed last fall at the California Mart and quickly won the "Rising Star" award for best up and coming young talent in business under 18 months, is a memorable 35-piece assortment of gabar- dines, silks and jerseys. They are artfully combined by Dajani to create a feeling of utter luxury. The very graphic and easy shapes mix together in a most unusual way. Featherweight silks in large blousy silhouettes slip over narrow cotton gabar- dine skirts and easy jersey pants. A mixture of floating chiffon drapes, tails and panels decorate coats with one lapel. Clearly, Dajani is interested in a functional approach to separates. The collection is full of mixable pieces that maintain their individuality when rematched. She believes that everyone is influenced by art, history and other aspects of the environ- ment, but her creativity is also spawned by the desire to trans- Thick fringe borders appeared on several outfits from Abel Villarreal. Here, the fringe border of the suit skirt is repeated in the matching hat.