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52 Friday, March 14, 1986

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THE DETROIT JEWISH NEWS

Proudly Introduces
Its New

BEST OF EVERYTHING

-- Executive' Chef Michael R. Hall

DANNY RASKIN

Preparing the finest in cuisine

luncheon & Cocktails Tues.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.
Dinner 6 p.m.-11 p.m. Tues.-Sat.
Dinner Jackets for men required after 6 p.m.

Private Pciities Available
Sot. days and Sun. all day

2750 HAGGERTY RD.
AT PONTIAC
624-0200RAIL

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I EXCELLENT BREAKFAST1
•I SPECIALS!

COUPON

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FAMILY RESTAURANT

13400 W. 9 MILE 110.
Just East of Coolidge
Oak Park

1

1

DINNER FOR

I

ANY COMBINATION! AFTER 4 p.m.

- I
I • BAKED OR BAR-BA. CHICKEN

95

FOR TWO!

Soup Or Salad, Pot., Veg. & Bread Basket

I

• HOMEMADE LASAGNA

ANY
COMBINATION! i

Salad & Garlic Bread

• / •

SHISH KEBOB,

•I • FISH &

II •

Rice, Salad & Pita Bread

Dues Cole Slow, Pot. & Bread Basket

LIVER & ONIONS,

LOOK FOR
OUR SECOND
' LOCATION
GREENFIELD
AND 11 ME

Soup or Salad, Pot., Veg.
and Dread Basket

(FORMERLY
OPEN MON.-FRI. 6:30-9 p.m. SAT. 7-9 p.m., SUN. 7:30-3
p.m. I IRVINE'S)
11.11111111// INI NO IN MI.= Writ MMMMMMM oft , wo. r ,

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ST. PATRICI( ~ S

DAy
FEATURES

•Live entertainment
from 6 p.m. by
The Reel Happy
Irish String Band

•

• Bountiful buffet.
with Corned Beef and
Cabbage, Irish Stew,
Chicken with Irish
Whiskey and Cream,
much more!

•Five gUnwinder"
weekend packages
will be awarded

• Served 11:30 a.m. to
3 p.m. and 6-10:30 p.m.

•Irish Coffee, green
beer featured

• Lunch $6.95, dinner
$10.95 per person

X NORTHFIELD HILTON

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THE ANONYMOUS DINER
food is 'A No. 1,' he added, busi-
"Though the clientele of New
writes . . . 'It's early in the morn-
ness will thrive.
York's delicatessens varies de-
ing on New. York's Lower East
"To satisfy these discriminat- pending upon location , by and
Sine. Voices can be heard shout-
ing palates., and at the same time large it is as diverse as the city's
ing orders. The phone rings inces-
keep all the different elements of population. Young and old, busi-
santly and there is a constant flow the operation 'in §ync, each of ness people, artists, tourists and
of customers, delivery men,
these operators must give a large members of any ethnic group can
friends and employees.
part of themselves to their restau- be found in these restaurants.
"The decor is an electric'mix of rant.
For The Stage and The Car-
hanging plants, wood paneling
"The' figure of the owner/ negie, both a stone's throw away
and orange and yellow tile walls.
operator in the front-of-the-house from the Broadway theater dis-
An oil painting of the deli and its
with ,his sleeves rolled up and trict, a large part of their business
street corner hangs on one wall.
sweat on his brow is the norm in is made up , of theatergoers and
On a ledge next to it copies of this type of business. It is his per- people in the
entertainment in-
Noshing is Sacred by Israel
sonal interest and attentiveness dustry.
Shenker, a book on Jewish gas-
to every detail that makes it work.
" 'Everybody from Broadway
tronomy, are on sale.
"For this reason, owners of The comes here,' said Leo Steiner, co-
"The overwhelming aromas of Second Avenue Deli, The Car- owner of The Carnegie. 'Most of
hot pastrami, corned beef,
negie Deli and Katz's Deli take Broadway comes here to eat —
frankfurters and sauerkraut float
the extra time and care to make writers., all the playwrights,
through the warm, steamy air.
their own pickles and cure their agents. The skinny girls with
"The Second Avenue Deli in
own meats.
plaitered hair, they're ballet stu-
many ways epitomizes New
"The owner of Kaplan's at the' dents, they come here.'
York's delicatessens. Salamis
Delmonico on East 59th Street be-
"Katz's Deli, on Houston and
hanging over the service counter,
lieves adding a personal touch to Ludlow Streets on the Lower East
the heaping bowls of pickles and
his restaurant is one way to please Side, is a father/son business, now
coleslaw on every table and the
his knowledgeable public.
in its second generation. The deli
tantalizing displays of food can be
"The owner, Jack Kaplan, a opened in 1912 in another loca-
found in almost every delicates-
flamboyant figure known for the tion and moved to the present one
sen in this city.
in 1928.
"Here, as elsewhere, business is red suspenders he wears daily, is
readily recognizable to customers
."Katz's is and always has been a
divided almost schizophrenically
and actively involved in every Jewish-style deli. Over the years
between sitdown, takeout, deliv-
ery and, in some cases, a mail- facet of his operation. He attri- it has retained more elements of
the original operation than it has
order service. Keeping all these butes much of the success of his shed.
eight-year-old business to what
aspects of the restaurant func-
he calls 'a feeling of hospitality,
"The decor is straightforward, if
tioning simultaneously is a chal-
homelike, like the yiddish word not stark looking more like a
lenge all delis face.
cafeteria or luncheonette than a
"At The Second Avenue Deli heimish:
"Kaplan says his particular delicatessen. Above the service
the food is kosher, and in keeping
breed
of
showmanship
is
a
major
line signs that seem to be from
with Jewish dietary laws, which
ingredient in his success. To him another era display the menu of-
forbid mixing.milk and meat, only
the restaurant business is like a ferings.
meat is served.
stage. Very often he can be found
"In New York, the kosher deli is
"Ambience clearly is not the
up front giving out chopped liver restaurant's calling card: Rather,
fast becoming an anachronism.
it is the quality of the food, the
Many operators will buy kosher to customers waiting inline.
"In previous ventures he was deli's reputation and its reason-
meats, but overall, the majority of
always
in
the
back-of-the-house.
able prices that draw customers to
delicatessens feature Jewish-
'This is the first time I'm 'on' he this remove section of Manhattan.
style food and service.
said during the first few years,
"The reason for this, they say, is
" 'Here, people get their
money's worth,' said . Leonard
that there is no longer a strong 'and I love it.'
"Owner of The Second Avenue Katz, co-owner 'and son of one of
demand for strict kosher service.
. "As the manager of Reuben's Deli is a warm, modest man who the founders. 'You can't get as
does not take success for granted. good a sandwich for the price.'
deli in midtown Manhattan put it:
Describing his oepration as an
'I think the trend is the return to
. " 'We were never dependent on
the Jewish-type deli, not kosher, overnight success that took 10 the neighborhood. People come
but Jewish style' As for kosher years to achieve, he said he is now over here from all over, all over
content to be doing 'a capacity the world.' And truly, here and in
service, he said, 'I don't think to-
day's generation really needs business.'
almost any other delicateisen in
"The 86-seat delicatessen New York, the customer base is
that.'
opened
26
years
ago
in
a
"Yet in all these restaurants,
not drawn from any one ethnic
neighborhood once known as group or neighborhood.
kosher or non-kosher, the ethnic-
Jewish
Broadway.'
Over
the
ity — the Jewish mother behind
"As Leo Steiner commented,
the bowl of chicken soup — is evi- years the area has deteriorated. panning the crowded dining room
dent. For this is the city where it Like Kaplan, he devotes himself at The Carnegie one afternoon,
all began, before the turn of the to pleasing his customers and per- `Where else can you see an old
century when the immigrants sonally making sure that things couple and right across from them
cane and settled, bringing with run properly. If he gets a com- a rock group? You'll never see
plaint from a customer, he'll call both eating in the same place
them their own unique cuisine.
"Whether it is the know-how up and inquire about what went anywhere else.' ,
and expertise of operators and wrong.
LARCO BROS. has opened its
suppliers, or the quality of the
second location .. . on Northwest-
p "Once, when a displeased
water, as some say it is, New York h atron wrote a letter to the deli, ern near 14 . . . Mark will con-
delicatessens are unique and h e called him up and met with tinue•to operate the first locale in
their quality seemingly un- d im in another restaurant. Upon Village Corner, Evergreen and 12
iscovering the letter writer's Mile . . . while Mike will be at the
:matched throughout the world.
"Because it all started here, o ackground -- he was a 23-year- new site . .. Really nice to see the
catering to this market is no easy • h ld rabbinical student putting kids going places.
imself through 'school — th e
task. '
SEVENTH BIRTHDAY at
" 'New Yorkers are a very dif-
owner of the Second Avenue Deli Prudential Town Center location
ficult group to satisfy,' says the made a deal with him that turned • is also St. Patrick's Day fun for all
mit to be. mutually beneficial. 'I • tahfi
Reuben's manager. 'People who
t eDlida.mond Jim Brady's Of
live in New York have been made him an offer to come in once
a
week,
eat
and
write
a
critique
of
touched by the different.types of
The celabraticin is todty, 11 to
food and really know the dif- it — the food, the service and ev-
n,
tomorrow, 5 to 12 mid. and
erything
else.
He
came
in
and
he
ference.'
, Monday 11 on\, .. Monday's shin-
would send me the bill. The stu- .dig will be a free birthday - cake
".'You cannot fool people on this
type of food,' said the manager of dent had a free meal once a week, and live entertainment *
and
. I had a spotchecker who could
The Stage Deli which opened in
STREAMERS On Van Dyke,
1920. People have grown up on help identify kinks filmy opera- gte4ing Height, has been open
this type of food.' As long as the tion. Best investment I could've jtist-o-ver two months and is still
made.'
-
. drawing' curious newcomers

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