new plaids make a strong fashion state-
ment. but most of the current crop are
medium to large in size. subtle in ex-
pression. Colors range from medium to
dark, and many highlight multi-hued
yarns.
There is a lot of interest in details like
patchpockets, throat latches, elbow
and gun patches, and Norfolk and ac-
tion backs. Another group of fashion
sport coats leans more to smooth
fabrics with an occasional crepe weave
or boucle yarn
The newest slacks feature casual
tweedy "sweater slacks" and cottons
with a well-worn wrinkled look. There
will be more pleated slacks, and a
growing trend to equip slacks with
suspender buttons
Dress Shirts
Colors are deeper, stripes are
bolder, and collars are widely assorted.
The fashion aspect of business shirts
is bold and upbeat, with stylists going
for heavy black stripes on white
grounds, deep tones bordering on the
charcoals, cutaway spread collars,
even a sprinkling of French cuffs.
Pinned collars cover all fashion bases.
Ties
The season's story is stronger colors.
Classic regimental stripes are sup-
plemented by eye-catching multiple
stripes with as many as five or six colors
in a single tie Paisleys abound, from
mini to maxi sizes Balancing the selec-
tion are neat small figures in both
printed foulards and woven silks, a
return of under knot patterns and
engineered patterns
Overcoats
Sub( wnly this is the young man's
choice I hese are classic models with
many in updated silhouettes: fitted
single and double-breasted chester-
fields, hall belted polo coats. full-belted
ulsters and raglan shouldered balma-
caws, some with full belts Lengths are
longer and some young men's coats
measure 48
Jeans
Styling is Meeker, Ii; complicated
The locus is on fabric texture and color.
with sonic of the newer looks pared
down to the essentials There has been
a tremendous resurgence of the basic
live pocket lean
Fabric choices range from indigo
Clefitrn to stonewasi ied canvas to "an
liqued . corduroy The softer, stone
washed shades are still popular but the
more advanced fashion looks are in
deep blue and sleek black
Outerwear
Ine movement is to functional
juwibt, otw,
design devoid of purely decorative
detailing. There is a revival of suburban
and car coats in both tweeds and
fleeces as well as velour-types, storm
coats, stadium coats and a mini-revival
of the World War II convoy coat. Em-
phasis is placed on colorful linings,
concealed hoods and double-entry
pockets. Leathers are better looking
than ever.
Sport Shirts
The swing is to woven goods com-
prising everything from lightweight
madrases to beefy flannels and cor-
duroys. An overview highlights deep,
rich tones, colorful mediums, and
plenty of brights. Look for paisleys of
all sizes and a host of foulard-type
prints, plus plaids, checks and tartans.
Sweaters
Today, the sweater is a dominant
fashion factor during the off-duty hours.
Current choices extend from classic
solid-colored shetlands to bold free-
form designs. Argyles in classic or
modern diamonds are strong. Stripes
are varied and colorful, and there are
many types of color-blocking done in
the appealing knits. Also new, cotton
knits for winter wear and intarsia-knit
patterns.
Shoes
Footwear, for the most part, offers an
uncluttered look. However, there are
quite a few tasseled styles and some
with metal trims. The "traditional" man
will opt for brogues, tasseled moc-front
slipons and, of course, the penny
loafer. Some of the younger men go for
street shoes built on the lines of running
shoes, with features like padded collars
and rolled-back toes.
Raincoats
Two major fashion trends are emerg-
ing: coats that concentrate on simpli-
city, and designer treatments that con-
centrate on a more generous cut. Men
seeking a change from the usual tans
may now choose from a variety of
greys and a soft brown shade called
"walnut "
Many raincoats have added interest
due to smart liners and linings in plaids
and tartans. The coats are slightly
longer and some are cinched in with
all - around bells Trench coats remain
the first choice
Formal Wear
The lashion spotlight is on a revival
of the flattering mess jacket in several
versions Tuxedos follow the prevailing
silhouettes, black is the dominant color
and is often highliglited with silver grey
Far Right:
A black crewneck con-
tains an array of brightly
colored rectangles, worn
with pleated pants in
grey and turquoise and a
handwoven muffler in
similar shades. Clothes
by Bianculli.
Right, top to bottom:
Unaffected business
dressing from Gant, in a
single-breasted, two-
button styling and
pleated pants.
Sahara Club plays up
geometric graphics in
contrasting colors on
cardigans.
Gant's traditional double-
breasted suit in oxford
grey flannel offers peak
lapels, flapped pockets
and double pleated
trousers.
Pendleton dramatizes
black and white, in a
black wool jacket, black
and white patterned
crewneck and black
pants.