throughout the audiences at every ma-
jor showing. Lynn Wyatt, wife of Texas
oilman Oscar Wyatt, Betsy Blooming
dale, Nan Kempner, Mercedes Kel
logg, Estee Lauder and Judy Taubman
were seated next to such European
celebrities as Anouk Aimee, Arielle
Dombasle, Claude Pompidou and
Helene Rochas.

There are two classes of Paris fash
ion: clothes made to measurement and
those made into standard sizes. The
pret-a-porter, or ready-to-wear, is in•
troduced in March for the following fall.
winter season. The made-to-order, or
haute couture, is always shown in late
July for the same fall-winter season.
Ready-to-wear shows are held in four
large temporary tents erected near the
Tuileries Gardens, and are attended by
2,000 to 4,000 members of the inter
national press, important buyers and
friends of the designers. In addition to
the 50 major designers who present
their collections during 10 jam-packed
days and nights, 40 more are based in
hotel suites all over town
The haute couture, which translates
roughly as - high fashion," is far more
exclusive, involving only 21 to 24 cou
turiers The sites for the shows are
usually far more elaborate, taking place
in hotel ballrooms or museums in vari-
ous parts of the city Generally two
showings are held, the first for the press
and important clients, the second for
anyone else the designer wishes to in
vite. The size of the haute couture au
dience is a mere fraction of the crowd
at a ready to wear showing
What qualifies a designer to use the
appellation "couturier" 9 The cherish
ed title is as strictly controlled as the
label on a grand cru wine Patrolled by
the Federation Francaise de la Couture
headed by Jacques Mouclier, members
are required to employ a minimum of
20 skilled artisans ui their atelier. and
they must present a collection with a
minimum of 75 new garments to the
press twice a year In addition. they
must hold minimum of 45 showings
per year to private clients and must

10 TRENDS

Haute couture clothing may be out
of the price range of all but a small
minority, but the trends reflected in
these collections always have a big
influence on the shape of things to
come.

Emphasis on the waistline:

The fitted waistline was the biggest
news from Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel
The peplum Jackets shown by Un
garo. Dior and Givenchy also em.
))hasiied the waist
Long over short: A great new
proportion introduced by Yves Saint
Laurent, , long, full, wide shouldered
tu nics over short. slim skirts The long
jackets shown over short. hip
wrapped dresses from Ungar() were
another striking example
ficant
The turtleneck: A
feature, especially in the Dior collet;
lion where it appeared on everything
Iron) jersey lops to bare shouldered
evening dresses.
"Monastic simplicity:" A
Anse coined by Yves Saint Latin?Ill
which defines the sober, spare all'
tulle that he call!, - anti bourgeois -
and "anti Ore madam. - a turn from
the exaggerated overdressed look!,
of seasons past into simple. wear
able elegance
Sults: Some of the best troll
Christian Dior. Givenchy, Ungar()
and Saint Laurent Some with long
Amadeus inspired frock Jacket:,
many with short jacket:, worn over
pencil thin skirts

Evening pastels: the most mill

forgettable were ;I seller, 01

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,/diow arid rliarwritd !HOW( I will
Inure soft -toned accessories

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Wool jersey: Indisputably Illy
fabric of the season Couture riesicin

repeatorily ',ed jersey for i!very
irj from pant!; suits to evening
('
;1 younger and II
lAed 106111g to the cloth

The flyaway jacket: A shod
(hip length). very lull jacket shown

repeatedly by Yvo:, Saint I ;10(00,
mostly over evening clothe!, Hut
lashic)rl predictor!, venture Iii,11 wr! II
be rieilrirly more about this shape
t:AWtJUI It, to con I IL'

The wrap drub:

Christian ()lora grey and
black pin stripe wool
skirl lo teamed with e
double breasted frock
coat with flapped
pockets , The turtle neck
blouse Is black wool end
silk,

Philippa Yowl* 044
end grey velvet paw
dress Is draped U Ow
kw.

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