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NEWS

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BY ROBERT ESHMAN

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The Judean Desert: Not Many
Changes Over Six Thousand Years

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Jerusalem — For about 6,000
years now, people have been trek-
king in the Judean Desert. Some
didn't have much choice: King
David, the prophet Jeremiah, the
Jewish zealots and Jesus fled
there to escape pursuers. Others
have gone more leisurely, such as
the early Zionist pioneers who —
for pleasure — would follow Be-
douin scouts along the scorching
ridges to Masada.
Now group excursions in air-
conditioned tour buses have re-
placed the Bedouins, and there is
a cable tram to the top of Masada.
But the desert remains in many
ways as rugged, alluring, and
dangerous as it ever was. "Ameri-
cans come expecting to see just
cactus," said desert guide Yan-
kele Greenbaum. "They get a lot
more."
According to the Ministry of
Tourism, 60 percent of all first
time visitors to Israel at least
enter the Judean Desert to see
Masada, the ruins of King Herod's
aerie-like hideaway. Thousands
of others take the salt baths or
mud cures of the Dead Sea, or
lounge among the waterfalls at
Ein Gedi. Some venture into the
desert's searing canyons and
plateaus by jeep, foot and camel.
The sum total of such variety
makes the Judean Desert Israel's
sixth most visited place, ahead
even of Haifa, Tiberias and
environs.
Wedged in a 40-mile strip be-
tween the Dead Sea and the
Jerusalem hills, the desert's prox-
imity to that city no doubt ac-
counts for much of its popularity.
But to its partisans there are more
important reasons.

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The Judean Desert, once a refuge for King David, attracts thousands of
tourists annually.

History is one. "The Sinai is
more wild, but it has almost no
archaeology. In the Judean Des-
ert, every rock is archaeology,"
said Greenbuam, who leads desert
tours for Neot Hakikkar Travel.
"People can see the Qumran
scrolls, the Bar Kochba caves,
Masada, Herodian, Jesus's Mount
of Temptation. They can get a
feeling for what the desert has
done for culture."
The other reason, said Arik
Oren, a park ranger at the Ein
Gedi nature reserve, is the des-
ert's sheer beauty. Standing at
the reserve's entrance, he need
only point to what he means. Fifty
yards to his left, for instance, a
herd of ibex — crescent-horned .
relatives of the mountain goat —
feed on leafy acacias. Oren reeled
off a list of other animals, from
snakes to eagles to leopards to the
ubiquitous, squirrel-sized
hyrexes, that live in the Judean
Desert, Israel's only complete
ecosystem.
He then pointed behind him, to
400 meter walls shooting up from
the desert floor. Formed by a two
million-year-old rift, these tower-
ing limestone walls stand in sharp
contrast to the vast Dead Sea,
which at 385 meters below sea
level is the lowest point on earth.
Above the walls stretches a vast
plateau of desert. There, every
two or three years, rains bring out
a spectacular show of wildflowers.
"It really has to be seen to be be-
lieved," said Oren, recalling the
last bloom (in 1980), when he
walked knee-high through the
desert greenery.
Since the early 1950s, such
beauty has been protected and
nurtured by the Nature Reserve's
Authority, which controls about
85 percent of the desert. The
authority has built up animal
populations depleted by Bedouin
hunting, and established a series
of field study centers for research
and education.
Now about 700 groups and
thousands of individuals visit the
Ein Gedi reserve alone each year.
On holidays the place is more
amusement park than wilder-
ness. To enter the real wilds of the
Judean Desert — the plateaus —

travellers must first secure per-
mission from the Authority and
the army, which uses a large por-
tion of the high desert for military
exercises. According to Green-
baum, Israeli youth regularly
take off for the plateaus, just as
the early Zionist pioneers did.
But the desert, while relatively
small, holds many dangers. Every
year several hikers die there, and
small monuments to lost loved
ones — a pile of stones, a plaque —
dot the landscape, Three years
ago a law forbade such memorials,
lest they clutter the plateaus.
"And just think," said ranger
Oren, "not everybody put one up."
Oren said the primary cause of
death and accidents is wandering
off the trails. "The Bedouins have
a saying, 'The trail is always
smarter than the people on it',"
said Oren.
Such disasters are easily
avoided, said Greenbaum, if hik-
ers stay on the trails and out of the
canyon beds. If lost, they should
stay in one place and await help.
Groups such as Neot Hakikkar
and the Society for the Protection
of Nature in Israel offer organized
desert treks which make the trip
even safer.
Since Israel returned the Sinai
desert to Egypt, tourism to the
Judean Desert in general and
these treks in particular, have
been growing even more popular.
According to Yair Giladi, director
of development and planning for
the Ministry of Tourism, plans
exist to build three new roads and
several new hotels in the area.
Desert-lovers such as Green-
baum and Oren worry that such
development will threaten the
desert's fragile ecology. Others,
such as NRA officials Dan Peri,
say the desert's harsh environ-
ment has historically prevented
too much development, and will
continue to do so. For now, said
Peri, the main problems are ani-
mal poachers, and the competi-
tion for grazing between wildlife
and the Bedouin goats. And those
are problems that have no doubt
been around for 6,000 years, when
people first came to the Judean
Desert.

VVorld Zionist Press Service

