46- - Friday; NOWtiter 9, - 1g84- 'THE-DETROIT-JEWISH "NEWS
M R 4,
VI .!
••
*..1 le
AI?
V
to
i,i;.;$;;•`'.'
Gene Ewing's patterned
stirrup pants in angora and
wool with side pockets zips
on the_ side; worn with an
off-the-shoulder black'
angora sweater.
This fall, the line is ev-
erything. The line and the
cut of clothes," said Diana
Zuppke, spokesperson for
the Claire Pearone shop.
Three lines — silhouettes
— predominate. One is the
menswear look, "broad
shoulders, traditional
tailoring, full-cut trousers,
longer jackets." The second
is architectural, "very
structured clothes with
broad shoulders, side
drapes on skirts, shorter
jackets." The third is "long
and lean, a strong 1930s
influence. You see it in
feminine sweater-dresses,"
Ms. Zuppke outlined.
Beyond these looks is a
variety of fashion- options,
from perennial favorites to
experimental styles, from
teaming black with neon
bright colors to dressing
head-to-toe in one of this
season's favorite colors,
winter white.
Nowadays, said Ray Eps-
tein of Ray and Ida's, "I find
customers can't be dictated
to. They want to wear what
looks nice on them and suits
them best. They have the
confidence to do their thing
and this season, there are
lots of different looks."
Two looks are attracting
the most attention this fall,
menswear and knitwear. In
menswear, wool is the fa-
vored fabric: garbardine,
flannel, covert twill, crepe
and patterned menswear
haberdashery such as
tweeds, plaids, pinstripes
and herringbones.
The fine fabrics in subtle
shades along with the new,
oversized proportions offer
a polished yet relaxed way
of dressing. The key is to
soften the look with
feminine pieces: a draped
silk charmeuse blouse; long
scarves, twisted and tucked
inside necklines; bold cos-
tume jewelry with brightly
colored stones.
In suits, jackets may be
blazer or cardigan style,
teamed with long, full
skirts. Pantsuits range
from an oversized blouson
jacket teamed with full-cut
pants for casual wear to a
man-tailored suit appropri-
ate for businesswear.
Separates play an out-
standing role this season.
Jackets range from blazers
to blousons, cardigan styles
to cropped cutaways. The
latest is the long, oversized
blazer: broad-shouldered,
with a notched or cardigan
collar and a straight body
cut.
Pants with full-cut legs
are cuffed or cropped, with
pleated or trapunto detail-
ing at the waist.
Skirts range from full
and soft to lean and tai-
A cashmere/cotton
natural-colored long sleeve
dress with padded
shoulders is fastened with
two, buttons at the top,
and worn with a black and
white striped coatdress. By
Gene Ewing.
bored. Details add interest,
especially pleats such as in-
verted pleats and box pleats
but also including . front
buttons, side buttons and
draping. Skirts tend to be
long, at mid-calf or longer.
Brown in all shades from
tan to chocolate is the most
important color. Navy is
big. Winter white is popu-
lar, as is grey from light to
dark.
Bright colors add lively
accents, like red, electric
blue, yellow and fuchsia.
Patterns and textures are
mixed; tweeds with tartans,
paisleys with plaids.
The menswear look can,
and probably will be, mod-
ified. For example,
menswear has been called
androgynous, "a word that
seems to be sweeping the
country," remarked Mau-
reen Fill of Hattie's. "I'm
not featuring the an-
drogynous look." But Hat-
tie's does carry clothes by
Italian designer Giorgio
Armani, one of the look's
creators._
"I like elements and
pieces of it," Ms. Fill con-
tinued. "Beautifully tai-
lored jackets in menswear
haberdashery that are not
oversized. Trousers in
menswear fabrics, pleated
and cuffed. An alligator belt
with an alligator buckle."
As for skirt length, some
designers may be highlight-
ing long but plenty of others
are featuring short skirts.
Ms. Fill pointed out, "Ar-
mani is short. Valentino
has both short and long.
There is no dictate on hem
length. It depends on the
look and feel you want."
A few seasons ago, hand-
knit sweaters came into
vogue. This fall, we are in
the midst of a full-scale knit
revolution. Available now
are knit outfits (skirts,
pants, tops); knit dresses;
knit coats; and an innum-
erable array of sweaters.
Sweaters may be worn
instead of a blouse or
layered over a blouse. They
range from cashmere tunics
with kimono sleeves to rib-
bed polos; from cashmere
twin sets to handknit cardi-
gans and pullovers.
Colors emphasize shades
of brown and winter white
plus rich, jewel colors like
cobalt blue, tomato red,
turquoise, hunter green,
fuchsia.
Some sweaters have
lengthened into dresses,
such as batwing and ribbed
polo sweater-dresses. The
easy, elegant cashmere
sweater-dress and the
cashmere pant and top set
are important wardrobe
pieces, according to
Rosalind Becker of Roz and
Sherm. The dress "is cut
straight, can be belted or
not, and has a jewel or cowl
neck," she said. "The
cashmere dress and other
knit dresses in this style all
have long sleeves and are
worn mid-calf or longer."
_Other dresses this season
vary from the oversized
chemise to those with a
flounce at the hem.
Skirtdresses in wool jersey,
challis or patterned
menswear fabrics have full
skirts.
This is definitely the sea-
son for accessories, to soften
the menswear clothes and
. to accent the knitwear. Mrs.
• Becker mentioned a few of
the more outstanding: "big
scarves, to wrap around the
neck, in paisley and
textured knits; big ear-
rings, button style, very
colorful in various mate-
rials; 1940s style silver
pins, placed. on coats and
jackets; turbans, with a
scarf in matching colors."
For longer length skirts
and dresses, flat and low-
heeled shoes' keep the look
in proportion. The leg is ac-
cented with opaque, pat-
terned or textured hosiery.
Leather gloves add a finish-
ing touch.
In costume jewelry, big
and bold are the fashion
bywords. Pins and earrings
are large and geometric-
shaped. Wide collars and
cuffs in copper and brass are
worn with knitwear.
Antique-looking pins and
military-looking medals
are being shown.. Pearls are
also getting a big play this
season, often worn Chanel-
style, long strands mixed
with gold chains.
Evening clothes range
Continued on. Page 54