THE DETROIT JEWISH NEWS

48 Friday, March 25, 1983

MARK, MIKE AND DUKE
LARCO

LARCO
BROS.

Danny Raskin's

rThe Best of Everythingl

Invite You To
A NEW CONCEPT IN FINE
ITALIAN CARRY-OUT DINING

THE END OF AN ERA
in the restaurant business
came with recent passing of
Sam Boesky.
Noted primarily by so
many as the head of Dar-
by's, a one-time magnificent
dining and drinking com-
plex on Seven Mile and
Wyoming, Sam, always re-
membered for his impecca-
ble ways and gentlemanly
manners, will also be re-
called among restaurant-
delicatessen pioneers.
But Sam didn't start out
in the eatery business .. .
coming from Russia, where
he was born July 15, 1895
. . . and working on a milk

ENJOY THE SAME GREAT FOOD YOU KNOW AND LOVED
FOR OVER 25 YEARS . . . NOW IN YOUR OWN HOME!

OPEN_
7 DAYS-
LUNCH

HEARTY WISHES TO ALL OUR
FRIENDS & CUSTOMERS FOR A
HEALTHY & HAPPY PASSOVER

20097 W. 12 MILE RD.

L353-5121

Corner of 12 Mile & Evergreen

COUNTRY VILLAGE CENTER

• 7-76Y6

DINNER

ING

GOLDEN BOWL

dining room, carry-out and trays

• breakfast • lunch • dinner
• after-theater • kiddie menu

SZECHUAN, MANDARIN, CANTONESE & AMERICAN CUISINE

968-0022

' 4

CHINA CITY

DAvs--,

KING LIM'S GARDEN NEW KING
261% GREENFIELD,' LINCOLN CENTER, OAK PARK

OPEN 7
A WEEK

Owned t Operalell
ly tiny I.
Stephen Too Men.

Mandarin. Szechuan & Cantonese Food

Mon.-Thurs. 11 to 10:30
Fri. 11 to 11. Sat. 11 to 12
Sun. 12 noon to 10

354-9077

at
the

SERVED ANYTIME
7 DAYS

IIIM.11111

11.

PANCAKE
HOUSE
• 100111 TELEGRAPH, S. of Plymouth
Serving Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner 1 538-0440

644-2727

OPEN 7 DAYS 6:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.

SZECHUAN, MANDARIN, CANTONESE & AMERICAN

MON.-THURS. 11-11, FRI. & SAT. 11-12 Mid.. SUN. 12-10

544 - 1021

Banquet Facilities Available

WW1 Puf46

SOUTHFIELD

THE GOLD COIN

CHINESE-AMERICAN CUISINE
24480 W. 10 MILE (IN TEL-EX PLAZA)
353-7848
West of Telegraph

NOW SERVING COCKTAILS
— Mon.-Thurs. 11 to 11 p.m., • Fri. & Sat. 11 to 12—i. v1- id. -• Sun 1 to 9:30

CO PLETE
CAR-OUT
RY

tit

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t.

1•1111
151

t.

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ma.

i an:

18213 W. 18 NILE M. & SOUTHFIELD RD.

569-5527

Mon.-Fri., 11 to 10:30

Saturday 11 to 1
Sunday 12 to 10 •
Banquet Facilities Available

FARMINGTON

31455 W. 14 MILE RD. & ORCHARD LAKE RD.

JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE

851 -8600

M-Th. Lun. 11:30-2:30, Din: 5:30-10
.
Fri. & Sat. Dinner tit 12 Mid.
Sun. 12-9

CANTONESE

Sun. 11:30-4, Fri. & Sat. Din. 4 to 2 a.m.

851-7400

.181

C
SERVING YOUR FAVORITE EXOTIC

DRINKS & CHOICE COCKTAILS.

I •

PRIVATE DINING-ROOM

BANQUETS • PARTIES • BUSINESS MEETINGS I

Your host ... HENRY LUM

Businessmen's Luncheons • Carry outs • Catering

a sm
m .. S MU ON N . -SAT.
12-12:45 a

UNCLE JOHN'S
uso S, WOODWARD, B'HAM

FUNG LIM'S

E GREAT

OPEN

Famous Chop Sony • Cantonese Food • Steaks • Chops • Sea Food
CARRY, OUT SERVICE
EASY PARKING
322 W. McNICHOLS, Bet. Woodward & Second
868-7550

Fred Bayne at the organ nightly

(313) 541-2132
■
■

ENGLISH DOVER SOLE
KINGSLEICINN 642-0100

KOW KOW INN

A Tradition
Since 1934

1128 E. Nine Mile Road (1 1/2 Mile East of 1-75)

[

Exotic Cocktails

N

ine 2inin4 and eockadd

CARRY OUT • CATERING
8410 W. NINE MILE, W. of Livernois

852.8280

EXPRESSLY FOR YOUR DINING

COMBINATION PLATE
ALMOND
BONELESS CHICKEN
WITH WON TON SOUP, EGG ROLL, $350

Remanded by AM & Msbile Guides

3350 Auburn Rd.

-

FLOWN IN FRESH

SPECIAL

titt - T ak.w/ -4404to

LIM'S

968-3040

Carry Out Service
Catering To Parties Available

COMPLETE CARRY-OUT

FRIED RICE & TEA
PLUS OTHER SPECIALS FROM $2.50 to $3.85

Speciag
lizin in
Cantones e Food

Open Daily 11 to 10:30, Sat. 11 to 12 Mid., Sun. 12 to 10:30
Carry Out Service
Free Parking
13715 W. 9 MILE ROAD, OAK PARK
547-4663

24535 W. 12 MILE RD. AT TELEGRAPH
• Private Dining Room • Businessmen's Luncheons

MON.-THURS. 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m.
FRI. & SAT. 11 a.m.- 12 mid.
SUN. 12 noon-10:30 p.m.

OPEN 1 DAYS—Mon.-Thurs. 11-10, Fri. & Sat. 11-11, Sun. & Holidays 1 p.m. to 10 p.m.
• Banquet Facilities
Your Chef: FRANK ENG

HOA KOW INN

3020 GRAND RIVER Free Parking TE 3- 0700
Private Banquet Rooms for wedding parties.
Serving the World's Finest Steaks, Chops and
HOUSE Sea Foods for more than 50 years. All Beef aged
in our cellars.

CARL'S

CHOP

Restaurant

22106 COOLIDGE AT 9 MILE In A & P Shopping Center
DINE IN & CARRY-OUT
398-5502 or 398-5503

open tuesdays thru sundays
10 a.m. to 11 p.m.

lincoln shopping center, 101/2 mi. & greenfield, oak park

LE

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35135 Grand River, Farmington
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476-9181
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,■ •

route for an uncle . . . even
though unable to read or
write English.
His start in the deli game
began with working for
Lefkofsky's in the Broad-
way Market . . . distributors
then of Vienna products ..
which Sam delivered to
other dining places in morn-
ings . . . and returned to
work the counter.
Sam was only 17 years old
when he bought the former
little candy store from
Charlie Goldstein on
Farnsworth and Hastings
for $2,500 (a couple hundred
down and rest in payments)
. . . This was the first Boes-
ky's Restaurant-
Delicatessen . . . with ev-
erything cut by hand . . .
and all his brothers working
for him . . . Abe, Bill, Sol
and Harry . . . that lasted
about 15 years.
Did you know Sam was
the original owner of
Boesky's on 12th and
Hazelwood? ... He sold
the deli on Farnsworth
and Hastings ... and
around 1923 opened his
12th St. spot ... with
brothers Bill, Sol and
Harry coming to join him
... Abe opened his own
place on Warren and
Hastings.
Around 1931, Sam left
Harry in charge and went to
Griswold downtown, which
later became Greenfield's
. . . and the Boesky's in the
Library Market with its
cafeteria downstairs and
waitresses upstairs . . .
serving about 700 . . . It is
said that Sam served too
many people for nothing
during those depressed days
. . . so went bust . . . and
back to 12th Street . . . It
was now in Harry's name.
Sam entered an al-
together different field .. .
the building business .. .
and called it Dependable
Builders . . . Then came
World War II and Sam had
become a bowling alley
proprietor, buying the
Sportsbowl in Wyandotte.
Probably the most
momentous period in Sam
Boesky's business life oc-
cured in 1955 . . . This is
when John and Nate Lurie,
Irwin Cohn and Sam -
Boesky opened what was to
become one of America's
most fabulous
delicatessen-restaurants
. . . Darby's . . . initially sea-
ting 375 . . . and without a
liquor license.
When Darby's first
opened, it almost ran out of
food•. and a man would
lock the doors so nobody
could come in until some-
body left.
Bernie Kerner started the
second year . . . working in
the back — kitchen, deli and
carry-out . . . Sam's philos-
ophy was that before you
could tell someone what to
do, you had to know yourself
. . . And so for a couple of
years, this is where Bernie
goyhis valued education.
-- Then one day, Sam came
to Bernie . . . handed him

the keys . . . and said,
"Here's your diploma. I'm
going to Florida .. .
Bernie asked when he
would be back and Sam
replied, "When I walk in
the door" ... It was the
first vacation Sam had
ever taken.
In the third year after
opening, Darby's received
its liquor license . . . and
with a cash money loan
from Irwin Cohn . . . with-
out any notes . . . just Sam's
word . . . he bought out all
his partners . . . and the
building, owned by Ward's
Corp. (John and Nate Lurie,
Paul Zuckerman, Dick and
Gene Sloan and Joe
Schwartz).
Sam always said there
were a lot of restaurant
managers but only a few
true restaurant men . . . He
never believed in asking a
person if they were satisfied
with the food . . . because
"when they pay, they're
thanking you. If there was
something wrong, they'll
call you over. You don't
have to ask them how it was
and implant any ideas in
their minds that there
might have been something
wrong to begin with."
Darby's was open Tues-
days through Sundays .. .
and, says Bernie, fed be-
tween 4,200 and 4,400
people daily . . . doing a land
office business . . . employ-
ing 120 people . . . seating
475 after the liquor license
. . . and catering to people
from all walks of life.
The person next to you at
Darby's might have been
the owner of a bank, a
famous show biz personality
or just someone who enjoyed
good food and the very best
in service.
Each day called for the
making of 160 gallons of
chicken soup . .. and 60 gal-
lons of whatever was soup of
the day . . . 60 gallons of
mushroom barley soup was
made weekly for serving
only on Sundays.
From the time of opening,
Frank Meltzer was man-
ager of the delicatessen
dept., outside catering, in-
cluding trays .. . Sam's wife
Edna was manager in
charge of waitresses and
buspersons.
In Darby's second year,
John Kereszi, who had
started as broiler man,
became head chef ... He
stayed ill Darby's burned
down, July 15, 1968 ...
while Sam was celebrat-
ing his birthday at a
party in the home of step-
son Bernie Kerner, and
wife Lurene ... What a
time to get such a phone
call!
Three years after it
opened came Beatrice
"Mama" Levitt who made
all the Jewish style foods .. .
and taught John Kereszi.
Five years after opening,
John Carmona worked as
maitre d'.
When Darby's burned, it
was doing $2,600,000
(Continued on Page 49)