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April 09, 1982 - Image 16

Resource type:
Text
Publication:
The Detroit Jewish News, 1982-04-09

Disclaimer: Computer generated plain text may have errors. Read more about this.

THE DETROIT JEWISH NEWS

16 Friday, April 9, 1982

Many Good Restaurants in Jerusalem Are Well-Hidden

THE

BLUE BUBBY

memorable experience for
people from abroad.
However, the city has
never been particularly
famous for its restaurants.
Therefore, good eating
places in Jerusalem deserve
to be noted — especially for
the sake of relatively low-
budget travellers who want
something more than a
felafel and less than an ex-
pensive repast in an opulent
setting.
Of course pilgrims to
Jerusalem with well-
padded pocket-books, or un-
adventurous souls who
never take chances, can al-
ways fall back on the
standard hotel and "guide-
book recommended" eating
establishments, many of
which are high-priced.
There is the Gondola,
where the late Golda Meir
enjoyed Italian food, the
Georgian, an ethnic eatery
of substantial Merit, or
Chez Simon, a French res-
taurant of excellent repute.

By JAMES LEWIN

Returns
May 25th & 26th

World Zionist Press Service

JERUSALEM — A visit
to Jerusalem is invariably a

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other styles available priced accordingly

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TO THE GREATEST
SON, BROTHER and UNCLE
In the World!!

"HAPPY BIRTHDAY"
RONALD BARRY RADER

On This Momentous Day

"April 6th"

WE LOVE YOU
Mom & Dad

Lynne, Donna, Allen, Robbie,
Kevin, Heather, Kerry

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Hotels like the King David,
Plaza and Hilton, offer good
food though at high prices.
Another excellent, but ex-
pensive meal can be found
at the prestigious Mis-
hkenot Hashaananin res-
taurant.
For Orthodox religious
visitors to Jerusalem,
who wish for a solid
kosher dinner, the best
bets would be The Cen-
tral Restaurant near the
black-coated Me a
Shearim enclave, and
Europa in Zion Square, a
veteran master of tradi-
tional Hungarian cuisine.
Some of the better
Jerusalem restaurants spe-
cialize in fish dishes only.
One may choose among The
Dolphin, an Israeli owned
restaurant in the Arab
neighborhood of East
Jerusalem, Beni's near the
center of the city or Savion's
across the road from Terra
Sancta.
Also recommended are
the vegetarian menus at the
Bavli, on the Street of the
Prophets, the Alpin on King
George Street or the very
central Soya restaurant on
Histadrut Street. All are
reasonably priced.
One of the best-kept
"open secrets" of gourmets
in Jerusalem is Cohen's, a
very inconspicuous restau-
rant with an anonymous
almost shabby exterior and
hidden genius concealed
within. Located on a side-
street across from the Edi-
son movie theater, you
could easily pass by Cohen's
tiny place without realizing
that it's the kind of restau-
rant favored by celebrities
and connoisseurs for whom
good food is more important
than spacious facilities or
attentive service.
The most economical,
yet satisfying, way of
enjoying Mr. Cohen's
original gastronomical
creations is to request a

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Giftware
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Steel forged
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Cross, Anne Klein,
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fresh salad as an ap-
petizer and several or-
ders of the variety of stuf-
fed vegetables —
eggplants, artichokes,
tomatoes, onions and
squash. These dishes,
cooked with mouth-
watering delicacy, using
the best quality kosher
ground meat, walnuts
and tantalizing sauce, are
considered by connois-
seurs as among the most
exquisite culinary de-
lights available in Israel
today. Two or three help-
ings, complete with cof-
fee and most extraordi-
nary stuffed plums for
(Wsert, constitutes a meal
to remember at a quite
reasonable price.
A dinner at Cohen's in-
cluding kebab or shishlik is
also excellent, though less
special and also more costly.
Menaggen's, possibly
Jerusalem's greatest at-
traction for economical
epicureans, combines a
common exterior with a
working-man's ambience.
Located off the open-air
market in Mehane Yehuda,
Menaggen's specializes in
ordinary oriental-style
Jewish cooking.
The humous here, accord-
ing to many experts, is the
best in the city. The soup is
savory and the meat-balls
are the type of food to build
muscles on. A great place
for a low-cost lunch.
Much less known is
Kadosh's oriental restau-
rant in the gas station
opposite Gan Sacher.
This can't compare with
Menaggen for a really
cheap meal but neither
can it be easily beaten in
terms of value for money.
The favorite spot of many
Jerusalemites seeking a
quick lunch is Taami in the
center of town. Here, how-
ever, while the soup, the su-
perb humous and the
shishlik are all beyond
criticism, and prices
cheaper than cheap, the
emphasis is on speed rather
than style. Patrons who'd
rather not gobble down
their food in fast gulps run
the risk of a brusque rebuke
from the owner, who has
been known to ask them ag-
gressively whether they
came to eat or to chat.
However, right next door
to the Taami, on Sha-mmai
Street, another small res- -
taurant has as relaxed a
tempo as anyone could ask
for. The Downtown of-
fer's a full selection of salads
and sandwiches, a variety of
soups, crepes and desserts,
at a reasonable price. An
excellent standard steak
meal is served by l'Entre-
cote on nearby Hillel Street,
a civilized restaurant which
is also reasonably priced.
An originally adventur-
ous, but now accepted part
of Jerusalem's culinary
landscape, is to be found in a
new spate of authentic
Chinese restaurants mostly
run by Vietnamese refu-
gees. That these boat people
have found new homes in Is-
rael is an unmitigated boon
to the country, for some
people are simply unable to

live without Chinese food.
However, one word of warn-
ing: if kashrut is a key
criteria, most Chinese res-
taurants don't even try to
qualify. Perhaps one could
stick to the purely vegeta-
rian dishes and get by with-
out transgression, though a
rabbi might disagree.
Two strictly kosher
Chinese eateries have
opened up in Jerusalem,
including the well ap-
pointed Marina in th
President Hotel. It is nc
to be confused with the
Chung Hwa, located be-
side a gas-station in
Kiryat HaYovel, which
features some of the most
delicate and delectable
Cantonese cooking this
side of Hong Kong.
The chicken with walnuts
is scrumptious. The
pepper-beef beats all. And
the duckling is a palatable
delight.
One popular new restau-
rant tucked snugly below
the Russian Compound, is
called The Tsrif, which is
Hebrew for "hut" or
"shack," indicating an un-
pretentious place, perhaps
off the beaten track. The
outstanding quality of the
Tsrif is its atmosphere of
bright friendliness, with
fresh flowers on every table
and picture windows look-
ing into a green Jerusalem
lane. The food is impeccably
prepared and served by
people who actually seem to
enjoy their work. This, in
contrast to --the all-too-
typical sloppy, resentful
service sometimes
encountered in Israeli
eateries.
The concept of the menu
at The Tsrif (which is not
kosher) is, basically, any-
thing and everything baked
in a light pie-crust. Among
the variety of cheese pies
with vegetables, the leeks
offer an especially delicate
flavor, combining thick
melted- cheese with the suc-
culent tang of green onions.
Also highly recommended is
the spicy fresh mushroom
pie.
As an appetizer, one
may choose from several
excellent soups and
salads, and for dessert,
enjoy the apple-pie filled
with custard and topped
with whipped cream,
provided you don't mind
the calories. One ques-
tion mark hanging over
the Tsrif is whether it ca
survive its own success
There is sometimes a line
waiting for tables for half
an hour or more. A res-
taurant with high
standards must maintain
them if it wishes to
preserve its good name.
Another good restaurant,
so successful that it has
moved to larger premises, is
Mamma Mia's, which,
under a different name, first
opened as a pizza parlor and
now serves a whole range of
Italian delicacies. It's
kosher because ingredients
are limited to cheese, pasta
and vegetables.
The meatless lasagna
melts in your mouth and is
(Continued on Page 17)

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