THE DETROIT JEWISH NEWS
The Best of Everything
(Continued from Page 32)
was delish.
Larco's antipasto, mines-
trone and spaghetti are still
among the best . . . I can't
remember the last time
anybody said they didn't
enjoy Larco's . . . Must have
been on a day they were
closed.
SET TO OPEN SOON is
Southfield Coney Island .. .
in shopping center on Nine
*le and Greenfield.
The Senate Coney Island,
week in the New York
slated for Southfield and 10 Times, she has been review-
Mile, is still "opening soon."
ing restaurants 'all my life.'
FROM NATIONAL
"Her standards for what
Restaurant News "Times_ makes a fine-dining restau-
critic Mimi Sheraton on fine rant good are high but not
dining":
unusual. She ranks cleanli-
"NEW YORK — Mimi ness first; food and service, a
Sheraton is one of the best- close second.
known food critics in the
"She won't tolerate snob-
country.
bishness in waiters and
"Known, feared and ad- thinks tips should be volun-
mired for the demanding tary, not mandatory, so you
reviews she produces once a `reward what's good and
00000000000000000000000000 punish what's bad.'
"She thinks restau-
rants should be reviewed
for their 'compromises'
AT
as well as for their overall
ambitions, and she sees
no sin in giving the cus-
tomer what he or she
IF YOU LIKE OLD-FASHIONED FARFEL, GEFILTE
0
wants even though the
FISH, LOKSHEN KUGEL, MANDELBROIT & OTHER
experienced re-
TRADITIONAL JEWISH COOKING FAVORITES .. .
staurateur might con-
JOIN US ANY FRIDAY EVENING FOR DINNER AT
sider the request an ab-
erration.
" 'I think if a customer or-
ders ice cubes in his red
wine, he should have it,' she
says.
22110 COOLIDGE AT 9 MILE RD.
0
" 'I hate nothing more
399-4440
than going to a currently
popular restaurant and tel-
A COMPLIMENTARY BOTTLE OF NEW YORK
ling someone who may have
SELTZER ON EVERY TABLE.
sent you there that you
000000ci00000eciot00000000ep000 didn't like the food. They in-
evitably ask, 'Well what did
you have," and when I tell
them, they inevitably say,
`Well, of course, you ordered
all the wrong things.'
" 'I don't think a restau-
rant should have any wrong
things on its menu. If the
36470 MORAVIAN
proprietor is going to do a
A, -
dish, he should do it right.
1 Block South of 16 Mile
And if he doesn't want to
Clinton Township
compromise himself, which
791-2350
I understand, he shouldn't
,..SpEciatizin g Jan
have it on the menu.'
"In her tenure as New
• Veal Parmigiana • Excellent Veal Dishes
York Times restaurant
critic, Mimi Sheraton has
• Veal and Steak Siciliano • Home Made Pasta
observed very -little turn-
over in fine-dining res-
taurants. Some stay in
fashion longer than
-
others. Some find them-
16 MILE RD.
2 PRIVATE BANQUET
23
selves limited to differ-
or
m
ROOMS
ent, specialized markets.
We Cater To Small
Lu
03
But most usually have a
le
m
Parties
life span considerably
C)
OPEN 7 DAYS
ci
longer than almost any
cc
MON.-THURS., 11 a.m.-12 Mid. z
other kind of restaurant.
0
<
FRI., 11 a.m.-1 a.m.
Co
"Mimi Sheraton sees a
SAT., 4 p.m.-1 a.m.
SUN., 12 noon-9 p.m.
15 MILE RD.
number of things operating
in the fine-dining restau-
rant's favor: their general
appeal to the expense-
account crowd; their appeal
to wealthy foreigners who
Presents
want -to try this country's
best; their place of honor
with the ordinary consumer
who tends to save for
months to take a special
person to a special fine-
YOUR BETTER HALF'S ENTREE
dining restaurant.
"Lately, she says, she sees
When another entree
a number of 'lesser' fine-
of equal or greater
dining restaurants trying to
value is purchased
build more of a market
share by affecting to be bet-
ter than they are.
" 'They use food words
Reg. Hours:
Entertainment
that seem to evidence value
Mon.-Thurs.
Wed. thru Sat. in
11:30 to 11
on their menus,' she says.
The Greasepit
Fri. & Sat.
`They say it in French. They
til 12
classify their dishes as
CO
.
;____
nouvelle cuisine. They gar-
nish with dabs of lobster
butter or tasteless canned
truffles to try to get more
money for a particular
Bet. 8 Mile & 9 Ntle
entree, maybe a chicken
dish or sometimes a beef
399-1040
Ferndale, Mich.
dish.'
TRADITION NIGHT
S
ESQUIRE TWO
ESQUIRE TWO
8
Dining & Cocktails
Elegant Dining In A Relaxed Atmosphere
Separate Cocktail Lounge
DOUG'S BODY SHOP
"BETTER HALF TIME"
et. 5 p.m. & 7 p.m. Mon. thru Sat.
1/2 PRICE
r
DOUG'S BODY 8110P
,
-_-_
___4-4---0
-
22061 WOODWARD
„
8 0
" 'Many of the lesser
restaurants are also try-
ing to come up with a
good, salable, less costly
item: chicken, duck or
codfish. They're includ-
ing more cover charges
and surcharges on their
fixed-price menus, if they
have them.'
" 'They're using coffee and
wine sales to help margin
spread.' "
"At restaurants toward
the upper level of the fine-
dining spectrum, you see
less of such trends, she adds.
"In the upper-level spec-
trum, Sheraton notes:
"A trend toward nouvelle
cuisine. Lightness in color,
texture and flavor. 'There
are fewer brown sauces and
more white sauces.'
"Italian restaurants are
trying to 'ruin themselves'
by trying to be too light and
are 'becoming tasteless.'
"There are more orange,
white and green julienne
vegetables on diners' plates.
"More kiwis.
"Among customers, she
sees more of a demand for:
"Smaller restaurants,
more intimate restaurants.
"More limited menus,
greater care in preparation.
"Prettier restaurants.
"She sees a 'slight'
trend toward automatic
tipping, but deplores it.
don't think people should
sit still for an automatic
20-25 percent tip in-
cluded in their check un-
less they think the staff
deserves it.'
"She expects the trend to
accelerate unless 'people
learn to speak out for them-
selves.'
"She also sees no
abatement in the trend of
treating customers 'from
New Jersey or the suburbs'
badly or snobbishly, par-
ticularly on Saturday
nights, and she has no hesi-
tation about warning cus-
tomers in her reviews-to ex-
pect such treatment.
"She agrees that most
fine-dining restaurants
usually have to limit them-
selves to about 75 seats 'so
as not to strain the kitchen,'
but she says the rule can be
broken as the Four Seasons
proves.
"She herself has a per-
sonal reservation about res-
taurants that are too small,
under 20 or 30 seats.
" 'I like to enjoy con-
versation with my meals,'
she says, 'and restau-
rants that are too small
make me feel like I'm
talking to the whole
world.'
"She thinks that fine-
dining restaurants aren't
always distinguished by
above-average food or serv-
ice. In some cases, she
thinks it is the personality
behind a restaurant that
makes it popular and well-
regarded or it may -be loca-
tion or the type of celebrity
market it attracts or even
just how good people look
sitting in the restaurant.
" 'I have been trying for a
long time to figure out what
makes a restaurant fash-
Continued on Page 34)
Friday, June 29, 1919 33
`Jewish Seattle'
Is Subject
of New Guide
There are 95 ORT schools
in Israel.
MOVIE
GUIDE
By WENDY MARCUS
(Copyright 1979, JTA, Inc.)
SEATTLE — The
Women's Division of the
Jewish Federation of
Greater Seattle has come
out with "A Guide to Jewish
Seattle," which details
cradle-to-grave resources
for Jews visiting or moving
there.
Its
editor,
Sheila
Sternberg, 33, spent three
months updating a previous
Seattle guide and compil-
ing, among other things, the
10 synagogues and their
leaders, two youth groups,
six religious schools, three
summer camps, 11 kosher
food caterers and shops, 10
Jewish women's organiza-
tions, two retirement homes
and four Jewish cemeteries
listed in the guide.
The free pamphlet is
available from the federa-
tion, 525 Securities Build-
ing, Seattle, Wash., 98101.
BERKLEY THEATRE
2990 W. 12 Mile Rd.
Berkley
LI 2-0330
All Seats $1.00
at all times
Burt Reynolds, Sally Field
& Jackie Gleason
"SMOKEY AND
THE BANDIT" (PG)
7:30 & 9:30
Sun. 2:20, 4:05, 5:50, 7:30 & 9:25
WASHINGTON THEATER
426 S. Washington, R.O.
541-0082
ALL SEATS $1
at all times
Burt Reynolds, Sally Field
& Jackie Gleason
_
SMOKEY AND
THE BANDIT (PG)
Mon.-Fri. 7:30 & 9:30 •
Sat. & Sun. 1:30, 3:30, 7:30 & 9:30
STEPHEN SON
CLUB'
24931 N. CHRYSLER DR. (I-75 at 10 Mile)
Hazel Park .PRIVATE
BANOUET FACILITIES
FOR 25 TO 300
542-9196
• Bar Mitzvas'
• Weddings
• Anniversaries
• Bat Mitzvas.
• Showers
• Parties For All
• Banquets
• Reunions
Occasions
Open Mon. Thru Sat., featuring Fine Steaks, Noble Wines, Casual
Elegance, Gourmet Salad Bar, (over 37 items, incl. creamed her. -
. ring, deviled eggs, etc.) House Specialties: Chateaubriand, Fresh
COMPLIMENTARY . RUM TORTE DESSERT
SAT. EVE ONLY
Entertainment
Hours: Mon.-Fri., 11 a.m. to 2 a.m.
Sat., 4 p.m. to 2 a.m.
OPEN SUNDAYS FOR PRIVATE PARTIES ONLY
RESTAU RANT-LOUNG E
29505 W. 9 MILE RD., SW Corner Middlebelt
SUNDAY ONLY SPECIAL!
474-4650
SLAB OF RIBS
MEAL INCLUDES:
COTTAGE FRIES, MOUND OF COLE SLAW
OR SALAD, GARLIC OR PLAIN BREAD.
Reg. Hours: Mon.-Fri. 11 to 2 tun. -
Sat. 4 to 2 a.m.
25
$
Your Host: MIKE WATZMAN
the
iwman
le•raee
27822 ORCHARD LAKE RD.
AT 12 MILE OFF 696 851-4094
Open mon. thru Sat.
1 1:30 a.ra.-2:30 a.m.
IS COOKING UP SOMETHING
SPECIAL FOR THE ENTIRE
MONTH OF JUNE!
SPECIAL DINNERS FOR TWO
MON. & TUES. EVENINGS UNTIL 11 p.m.
WED. THRU SAT. BEFORE 1 p.m.
• VEAL SCALLOPINI • VEAL FRANCESCO
• VEAL PARMESAN
per
couple
includes:
Antipasto &
1 /2 Liter-of
House Wine
Ask about our
complimentary
lunch drawing