to the USSR JTA Editor Emeritus Boris Smolar Reports on His Mission fate of my Jewish compatriot. I (Editor's Note: This is the first the various Jewish delegations of a series of columns by Boris from the United States who had Smolar, editor-in-chief emeritus of visited the country. I talked to at the Jewish Telegraphic Agency, fol- least 200 Jews. They were of v ari- lowing his return from a three- ous professions and of various week visit to the Soviet Union ages. Among them were uni- where he studied various aspects of Jewish life there. He talked to versity students, writers, holders numerous Jews of all ages, discuss- of government positions, office ed problems of Soviet Jewry with workers, cultural workers, both high Soviet officials, and was per- men and women. Also religious mitted to visit Soviet institutions Jews and even Jews who insisted to which entrance is restricted even on conversing with me in Hebrew. for Soviet citizens, including the I succeeded in discussing the State Library in Leningrad — the third largest in the world — where Soviet stand on Israel with high the Soviet Government trains officials — and Israel is an "ugly young men in Hebrew for state word" today in the Soviet Union, purposes. The library is closed to which people seek to avoid even the public, but scientists are ad- in private conversations—and was mitted there by special permission for research work. Smolar also given revealing information. I na- visited the Leningrad Synagogue, turally discussed with Soviet the largest and most beautiful Jew- spokesmen the question of anti- ish house of worship built in Czar- Semitism in the Soviet Union, dis- ist times by the St. Petersburg crimination against Jewish youth Jewish community, and witnessed in universities, suppression of Jew- the demonstration by about 12,000 ish culture, inequality in the treat- Jewish youths in front of the Mos- cow synagogue on Simhats Tora ment of the Jewish religion, re- union of Jewish families through evening.) emigration and other delicate sub- • s • thorities, I emphasized that I came primarily to study the status of Jews in the USSR and intended to write about it. In speaking Russian I did not try to pose as a Russian. I always made it a point to start the conversation by informing the people with whom I spoke that I was an American interested in taking a look at the situation of Soviet Jewry from the "inside." Some Jews were hesitant to talk to me when they learned that I was a Russian-speaking American. Others, on the other hand, were very frank in talking to me. They welcomed the fact that they could converse with me in Russian since most of them knew no English. This was especially true of the Jewish youngsters. They do not understand Yiddish either, so my talking to them in Russian bridged the gap between us. * * * HEBREW IN MOSCOW: Some of the elderly Jews I met were ex- tremely cautious at the beginning of our talks. With them, my com- mand of Russian worked the other way around. Obviously they did not trust me at the beginning because of my fluent Russian, although they were told that I was an Amer- ican Jew. To them, any Soviet in- telligence agent may pose as an American Jew who speaks Rus- sian. At least two such Jews—one in Moscow and one in Kiev—tested me by asking me in Hebrew wheth- er I also spoke Hebrew. When my answer was "yes," they began to speak -to me in Hebrew. It was a poor Hebrew but very understand- able. After conversing with them for a time in Hebrew, I suggested that it might be easier for them to talk to me in Yiddish. Each of them rejected the suggestion. "It is so seldom that we have a chance to converse in Hebrew," was their argument for insisting on using Hebrew as the language of our conversation. Only upon my landing at the Leningrad airport—my first stop on Soviet soil—I did insist on speaking English. There was a reason for it. With Soviet border officials it is always better not to show that you understand Russian. They usually become suspicious when they hear . you speaking Russian. The formal- ities are dispensed with much easier when you speak English, if you are an American. There were only two American passengers on the Soviet plane which brought us from Stockholm to. Leningrad. While I spoke in English to the uniformed Soviet officials who examined my pass- port, the other American passenger —a Brooklyn Jew--chose to show off his knowledge of the Russian language. The result was that I had no difficulties whatsoever with the passport and custom authorities, while he had a terrible time with them. They examined in detail, evey piece of luggage he had. I was determined to wait for him until the examination of his lug- gage was over, but the Soviet men in uniform insisted that I didn't They ordered the taxi driver who took my valise into his cab to drive off at once. He did so, with- out a murmur of protest, despite the fact he was expecting the other American to be his passenger also, since both of us were assigned to the same hotel. I felt a little disturbed over the did not know his name. Upon reaching the hotel, I waited at the registration desk for him for about an hour. He did not appear. This gave me a restless night. However, I saw him the next morning at the restaurant in the hotel where he was having his breakfast. He was miserable, and wished he bad not spoken to the passport examiner in Russian. They wanted to know how he knew Russian, and were especially interested to know whether he had any relatives in Russia. When he answered that he had, and that the entire purpose of his trip was to visit his relatives, they insisted on having the names and addresses of the relatives, and asked him quite a lot of questions. They were even more rude to him when they no- ticed that his passport carried visas showing that he had been in Israel — something which they made no fuss about when they saw Israeli entrance and exist visas in my passport, apparently because my passport indicated that I was a professional journalist. jects on which I found the Soviet regime to be very sensitive. I even had a chance to spend several I admit that I left New York for hours with Arab students who are my trip to the Soviet Union with a being trained in Moscow for mili- heavy heart. I had been warned by tary purposes and was invited by friends not to make the trip at a them to visit their dormitory. They time when American-Soviet rela- spoke perfect Russian and very English. tions were twit at their best. Those I was invited to private Jewish who advised me against visiting homes for dinner and I also had the Soviet Union advanced several drinks with Soviet writers, some reasons. First, they thought it of whom presented me with their would not be wise for me to pro- books inscribed "in friendship." I mostly ceed to Moscow alone — nor in a was among 12,000 Jews, young students — boy and girls — group. On their mind was the dis- who crowded the Moscow syna- appearance and death of Charles gogue — and the entire block on Will be Sold at $17.50 Jordan, executive vice chairman which the synagogue is situated— Simhat Tora evening, present- of the Joint Distribution Commit- . ing an unforgettable scene of mer- tee, during his visit, to Prague. riment within the synagogue dur- Then they argued it would be ing the "Hakofes" and dancing the Until dangerous for me to visit the hora outside the synagogue until Jan. 31, '69 Soviet Union with my American after midnight under a torrential passport showing that I often visit autumn rain which did not, how- NOW . . . AVAILABLE ONLY AT Israel which is now constantly be- ever, have any effect on their ing blasted in the Soviet press and joljly mood. radio—and also by Soviet delegates HEBREW BOOK & What helped me very much in my to the United Nations — as an mission was the knowledge of the GIFT CENTER "enemy" state. They also pointed Russian language. Also the fact out that my name was well-known that my name was known to some 542-7520 24900 COOLIDGE Cor. 10 MILE to the Moscow authorities as a authors and editors in Leningrad IN THE DEXTER DAVISON SHOPPING CENTER journalist who for years has been and Moscow, as well as the fact OPEN SAT. NIGHT — ALL DAY SUNDAY criticizing the Soviet government that when speaking to Soviet au- for its discrimination against Jews in the Soviet Union as well as for its stand against Iarael. All of these arguments made sense. However, the fact that I was granted the Soviet visa within three days of my application tempted me to take a chance. I knew I would be watched in the Soviet Union — and it turned out later that I was right in this as- sumption—but I did not intend to do anything in Russia that could be construed as illegal and I have also been used to taking risks dur- ing my 50 years of journalistic work. I risked my life in Palestine, when I flew there during the Arab riots against Jews in the "Mev- raot" years, when the British ad- ministration there imposed curfews in Jerusalem and other cities. I risked my life to work in Nazi Germany for quite a time as the only Jewish journalist, irritating the Nazis to a point where they finally ordered me and my wife deported "as persons whose pres- Guest Speaker Guest of Honor ence in the Reich is harmful to the state." And I have risked working in the Soviet Union as an American correspondent in the years before at the the United States granted diplo- matic recognition to Moscow; when there was no American Embassy in the Soviet Union to protect me as an American citizen. So I decided to take a risk again now. * * * DISTINGUISHED PARTICIPANTS: DELICATE DISCUSSIONS: The risk turned out to be worthwhile. I Rabbi James I. Gordon Rabbi Milton Arm - Cantor Shabtai Ackerman Phillip Stollman think it is correct to state that during the three weeks of my stay ROBERT BRODY, General Chairman in the Soviet Union—visiting Lenin- grad, Moscow and Kiev — I met Chanukah music by ERIC ROSENOW and his Continentals For Reservations: with more Jews than any of By BORIS SMOLAR (Copyright 1968, JTA Inc.) JUST OFF THE PRESS! ABBA EBAN'S "MY PEOPLE" THE STORY OF THE JEWS nso. SPECIAL PRICE SPITZER'S LAST REMINDER MINISTER PINCHAS SAPIR JAN PEERCE DR. JACOB E. GOLDMAN ISRAEL CHANUKAH DINNER Thursday, December 19, 196&-7 P.M. Grand Ballroom, Cobo. Hall THE DETROIT {EWAN NEWS 6—Friday, DecandfdP15/ 1 9118:' D I 1-5707 4,• r $6.50 per perwn, Dietary Laws Observed - Reserved Seating for' or '1968 Israel. Bond,Purcbasers , itkkttittt